The city of Oaxaca de Juarez, or simply Oaxaca, is the largest city and the capital of the Mexican state that holds the same name and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The “de Juarez” was added in 1872, to honor the local, Benito Juarez, who became president of Mexico and held office for 20 years (1852-1872).
The city itself is located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre sitting at the base of Cerro de Fortin (or Fortin Hill) and extending as far as the Atoyac River. The actual city of Oaxaca is relatively small, especially when compared with the sprawling metropolitan areas I’d spent the last week in.
Oaxaco (pronounced with a W at the beginning) and its Zocalo (or main city center) is packed tight with colonial-era buildings, significant archeological sites, and many elements of the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. UNESCO designated the city and the nearby archeological site, Monte Alban, as a World Heritage Site. This helps to preserve both the cultures and the historical significance of the city of Oaxaca.
Oaxaca has long been considered the culinary capital of Mexico. Oaxacan cuisine is most notable for the sheer variety of flavors and colors of their moles. Mole is a complex sauce that generally needs to simmer all day, and longer if possible. Other notable foods include, cacao usually in the form of a bar of chocolate (generally used for hot chocolate), chapulines (or fried grasshoppers with chili powder), Tlayudas (a massive and slightly crispy tortilla stuffed to the brim with meat and veggies), and traditional breads.
Oaxaca is also home to more than 70% of the production of Mezcal, but more on this later. I spent two and a half days here and I easily could have spent more! I took a stroll through the Zocalo, the main cathedral, and the sprawling pop-up markets that circle the Cathedral. During this walk, I made sure to take a second to sign up for the famous Zapotec ruins, Monte Alban.
The tour picked me up from my hostel at 730 am on my second day and lasted a full 12-hours. We pulled into Monte Alban close to 9 am, a full hour before the gates open. The hours of operation are from 10 am until 3 pm. However, the ruins only allow around 3-400 people per day. Limiting the number of people helps to protect and preserve the culture while minimizing erosion from human impact.
These ruins were built on an easily defended human flattened hill top that is 1,490-meters (or 6,400-feet above sea level). They even used the stones from the hill to build what is standing today. The structures and buildings were produced with both limestone and clay, with stucco for the façade. A majority of the walls have been reinforced with cement to help protect them from further decay.
Monte Alban is believed to be one of the earliest cities in Central America, thriving between 500 B.C. and 800 A.D. The main plaza is filled with several alters, plaques, and temples. Several of which are believed to have been used for human sacrifice. The Zapotecs believed that these sacrifices would help them connect with their gods. It is believed that these ceremonies were held for the fertility of the land, water, weather, and of course, food.
Before the arrival of the Spanish, the Aztecs were the rulers of the land. Aztecs would force the locals to pay tribute to their gods with more human sacrifice. Simultaneously the Aztecs would force cultures to work, producing food that was generally used for trade.
According to my tour guide the Spanish Inquisition arrived between the 16th and 17th centuries, in 1654. During this time, the Zapotecs and Mixtecs either had to declare belief of Christianity or be persecuted for resistance.
Ancestral Mezcal Production and Local Art
The next stop on the tour, was a local ancestral Mezcal producer. This producer has continued to use methods from as far back as 200 years ago, passing the techniques down from generation to generation.
Mezcal is a distilled alcoholic beverage, similar to tequila, but different, as any type of agave may be used in its production. These methods originated in Jalisco. However, it was Oaxaca that put Mezcal on the map.
There are around 40-types of agaves that can be used in mezcal production. This pales in comparison to tequila, as tequila only uses one variety, Blue Agave.
Mezcal is made with the heart of the agave plant or the “piña.” Each type of agave provides a different flavor, creating dynamic sensations and tastes to play around with. Mezcal is generally consumed neat or on the rocks and usually accompanied by a fairly strong smoky flavor.
Our next stop was a local shop of the art style known as Alebrijes. Alebrijes are wooden sculptures that range in both shapes and sizes. The sculptures are usually of fantastical creatures and animals. Each sculpture is hand painted with a wide spectrum of color, usually the final product come out extremely vibrant. According to recent legends, the art and name Alebrijes, originated in the late 1930’s, close to Mexico City, by a man named Pedrol Linares.
The Alebrije art style of three-dimensional sculptures was originally done with different types of paper, in strips, with engrudo (or glue made out of wheat flour and water). Today, however, these sculptures are carved from a local wood known as copal.
On the other hand, Barro Negro (or Black Clay) is a style of pottery that is distinguished by its color, sheen, and unique design. This style even finds origins from as far back as the active times of Monte Alban. Barro Negro is one of the most appreciated styles of pottery in Mexico.
Barro Negro stands out due to the color and its sturdiness. Just before the clay piece is completely dried, it is polished with a quartz stone to compress the surface. This allows both the color and the shine to alter. To finish the process, these pieces are then “fired” into a bonfire, pit or kiln.
Overall, my time in Oaxaca was shorter than I should have allowed. I would have loved to take more time and really dive into everything the city has to offer. I’d easily recommend taking around five to seven days. With the extra time visitors can explore this epicenter of culture and food.
Stay tuned, next up I’ll be headed deep into the Oaxacan mountains for a stop into the intimate and secluded little mountain town known as San Jose del Pacifico.
