Until 1892, San Cristobal was the capital of Chiapas and then it moved to Tuxtla Gutierrez. Today, it’s considered the cultural capital of the state, and some say, of the country. In part due to a population of more than 200,000 inhabitants. The people living in the area includes more than nine indigenous populations.
Unfortunately, the mountains and jungle around San Cristobal have been heavily deforested. Yet, there are several fun outdoor activities to keep any kind of traveler busy for the day. There’s plenty of accessible hiking. There’s also a plethora of rivers and caves for those that are more adventurous.
This city thrives on tourism. It has gained popularity throughout the backpacking community during the last ten years. In part due to its chill, relaxed vibes, which includes a cheap cost of living. Yet, the region finds notoriety through its immaculate production of chocolate and coffee.
I spent around a month and half in San Cristobal and have nothing but praise for this beautiful city. I LOVED it. I could see myself moving there one day. The climate features warm days and cool, sometimes cold, nights. While the city itself isn’t too big, allowing for walking access throughout.
Free Walking Tour
A group of local artists offer a free walking tour, that is tip based. It meets in front of the main cathedral, Cathedral de San Cristobal de las Casas, next to the Zocalo (or city center). I made sure that this was the first thing I did. Thus, helping me learn the layout of the city.
One of my favorite parts about walking tours is they help learn the layout of the city. This tour took us through the less touristy areas. Showing us the local spots, including a handful of excellently detailed street murals. The tour close at a local art shop. Erica (our tour guide), demonstrated how to identify the rare amber found in Chiapas.
The soil composition where amber forms, creates a glow while shining a light on it. Chiapas amber is the only amber in the world, that glows after direct exposure to a light source. It’s preferred to use a black light, yet a regular light will work too.
We stopped into Frontera Cafe, where our guide introduced us to Pox. An indigenous alcoholic drink that’s pronounced posh. Pox is an alcohol distilled from corn, sugarcane, and wheat. The word pox, meaning medicine, has ancestral origins in Mayan culture. This drink is quite strong in taste and alcohol content.
The original flavor contains 45% alcohol and reminded me of vodka. We also tried hibiscus and cacao flavors too. These registered at 18% alcohol, while completely hiding any burn or alcoholic flavor. I felt the cacao flavor would be excellent to use in a desert drink.
El Cerrillo
During my time here, I walked around to most of the local cathedrals, churches, and pueblos. I found several closed due to concerns surrounding the Covid-19 pandemic. Several closures were due to structural damage from a major earthquake in 2017.
I got luck though, as the one considered the best was open. El Cerrillo was in excellent condition. The building features a red and white facade. It’s tucked into a small plaza, surrounded by cobblestone streets. El Cerrillo transports visitors back in time.
I found myself surrounded by an array of colors. Painted across colonial facades, tracing the cobblestone streets. Constant upgrades, and repairs, distinguish it from the surrounding buildings. Also, thanks to the passing of time. The facade was rebuilt and repaired on several occasions, in 1819, 1835, 1849, and again in 1890.
Get Lost in the Markets
The Santo Domingo Cathedral is a little south, where the daily massive open-air market is. Visitors can find pretty much anything they need here. I found saffron, coffee, chocolate, fruit, and vegetables. It features every type of meat in the region, handmade textile goods, and electronics too. Visitors can even get a haircut if desired. I find it difficult to avoid getting lost. The markets are extensive. They become an intense maze of never-ending rows in every direction.
Getting There & Where to Stay
Getting to San Cristobal is simple. Use Busbud for the cheapest route and buy your ticket in advance. Busses leave for San Cristobal from any of the major destinations in Mexico. The most convenient route of travel is with a rental car and Google Maps. A rental car allows for the freedom to do what you want when you want. It’s also possible to use Uber, or a taxi. Both are expensive, but Ubers tend to be a little more affordable.
Find the cheapest accommodations through Hostelworld. I used Hostelworld to find La Casa de Paco, a hostel with dormrooms for 110 pesos ($5 USD) per night. The atmosphere is friendly, featuring a full kitchen and a basketball court. Find more lavish accommodations through Booking. Booking offers the best prices to rent a guestroom or a cheap hotel.
Final Thoughts
I can’t say enough about how much I love San Cristobal and its temperate climate. It’s a nice reprieve from the intense heat found on the coast. I plan to return one day, but for now, I cannot wait to get to the Mayan ruins deep in the Chiapas jungle, Palenque.
The secret’s out on San Cristobal. It’s no longer off the beaten track, as it’s become a frequent stop along the backpacker trail. What are you waiting for? Make those reservations today!
