A Powerful Mayan City: Uxmal, Mexico

Uxmal was a powerful Mayan city that was once considered the throne of the Yucatán Peninsula, similar to that of Chichen Itza. However, I enjoyed Uxmal much more due to less visitors throughout the course of the day. The site only allows 200 visitors at a time, which creates an enjoyable and intimate experience, especially if compared to Chichen Itza.

Uxmal is easily accessible and only 62 kilometers (38.5 miles) or roughly 45 minutes south of the capital city of the Yucatán state, Mérida. Unfortunately, there are no collectivos that service the site, so the only option is to stop into the ADO station to buy a one-way ticket for 60 MXN. However, the return busses can be a little finnicky, so I recommend only buying a one-way ticket. At the time of publishing, the entrance fee was 461 MXN (roughly $23 US) but covered both the entrance and National Park fees. The site opens daily at 8 am and closes at 5 pm. Backpacks are not allowed inside, but they do offer free storage while you explore.

Comparable to Calakmul, Chichen Itza, and Palenque, Uxmal is one of the most important archeological sites of Mayan culture. The city is located in the Puuk region of the Yucatán and is most representative of the regions dominant architectural and artistic styles. In 1996, Uxmal was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its significance in the Mayan world along with the immaculate preservation of the magnificent ruins.

According to the “Maya Chronicles,” Uxmal was founded in 500 AD by Hun Uitzil Chac Tutul Xiu. The name Uxmal is derived from the Mayan word “Oxmal” and means “three times built.” It is believed that Uxmal flourished during the Late Classic Period between 600 and 900 AD. Most of the city’s construction occurred between 850 and 925 AD. Uxmal continued to hold the seat of power until close to 1000 AD when the Toltec invaded and took over the region. Not long after, construction would seize by 1100 AD. Early colonial documents suggest that the city was still of some importance well into the 1550s.

The Spanish never built a city here, leaving the fate of the site to be abandoned soon after. During the height of Uxmal’s control, it is estimated that the population reached as high as 20,000 inhabitants. Uxmal is a city that would have struggled to attain and retain water, as they did not have an on-site cenote like other Mayan cities of the Yucatán. Instead, they were able to collect water by building chultuns, a circular or bottle shaped concrete cistern that funnels water underground for storage.

Puuc Influence & Advanced Methods

Uxmal and other ancient cities located along the Puuc route have one architectural style that was of direct Mayan influence. Puuc style is identified by smooth walls that open to ornate freezes with detailed representation of Mayan symbolism. Both the buildings and the architecture are typical of this style and a notable asset of the region. The lower sections tend to be plain with rounded corners that have small arches and entrance ways. In contrast, the upper sections are highly decorated and reflect distinct layering of stonework designs such as lattice work, serpents, and pillars to name a few.

The Puuc construction system was highly advanced for its time, with methods of cut veneer stones laid into concrete. This creates greater stability to the structures while simultaneously allowing for larger buildings with stable interior rooms. This was a massive improvement from earlier methods of stones held together by plaster. These advanced methods are most likely the reason why so many of Uxmal’s buildings, aged more than 1000 years, are still in such great condition today.

Uxmal is one of the few Mayan cities that is preserved well enough to show casual visitors the entire layout of the Mayan ceremonial centers. The entire archeological site covers 60.70 hectares (150 acres), most of which is the main city and ceremonial center. In fact, Uxmal is matched only by Palenque in beauty, elegance, and grandeur.

The archaeological site of Uxmal begins and ends at the Pyramid of the Magician, also known as the Great Pyramid. The name “Pyramid of the Magician” is a reference to an old Mayan legend “El Enano del Uxmal” (or “The Dwarf of Uxmal). The story details a dwarf who used magic to raise the pyramid overnight on orders from the king.

Mayan structures are built to take advantage of the surrounding terrain allowing them to gain height. Archeologists have discovered that the Great Pyramid was built in five stages of construction along with nine stepped bodies creating what is seen today. The western staircase faces the sun during the summer solstice, and it is believed that the north staircase was most likely from a smaller pyramid.

The Great Pyramid is by far the tallest and most recognizable structure in Uxmal. It looms over the rest of the city at an imposing 35 meters (or 115 feet tall). This incredible structure is still climbable today, however unfortunately for me, the pyramid was closed due to concerns surrounding the COVID pandemic.

Uxmal is home to one of the longest Pre-Colombian Mesoamerican buildings yet discovered. The Governor’s Palace takes up an astonishing 1,200 square meters (or 12,917 feet), while the mosaic façade extends 97.5 meters (or 320 feet). These structures demonstrate the lengths of engineering advancements that the Mayan people discovered. The façade is adorned with 103 stone masks of the Mayan Rain God, Chac, who was the patron god honored in the ancient city.

This was easily one of my favorite archeological sites in the Yucatán. The details of the stonework are second to none and demonstrate some of the best examples of Mayan architecture and craftsmanship. Uxmal was my second favorite of the major archeological UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Yucatán, trailing only Calakmul. I would love to come back to this incredible place although next time, I would probably return with a tour to get a deeper understanding of the function and importance of the ruins.

I would highly recommend making the trek in the early morning and arrive by open, at 8 am. We got off the bus at close to 11 and boy was it hot. It took us nearly 3 hours to fully enjoy the site, the day continued to scorch as the sun climbed higher in the sky. Luckily there are some shaded areas, to escape the heat scattered around the site. I would recommend visitors to bring a hat and bottle of water, as both are extremely useful for staying hydrated. Bring the family, some friends, or come alone and enjoy a quiet day away from the busy city center of Mérida. Entrench yourself in Mayan culture and learn more about one of the many historical elements that makes Mexico such a wonderful place.

Quick Notes:

• ADO one-way bus ticket from Mérida: 60 MXN
• No collectivos service this archeological site
• Entrance & National Park Fee: 461 MXN
• Uxmal Hours of Operation: 8 am – 5 pm