San Salvador is the capital of the department of the same name, and the country of El Salvador. Surrounded by volcanoes in the highlands, the capital is prone to seismic activity. Overshadowed by the towering Volcan Boquerón, the capital sits in the center of the Boquerón Valley.
The capital has an average elevation of 659 meters (2,162 feet). It is west of a major caldera that includes Lago Ilopango (Lake Ilopango). Lake Ilopango is the country’s largest natural body of water. It has a surface area of 72 square kilometers or 28 square miles.
As of 2020, the metropolitan area is home to an astonishing 1.1 million inhabitants. San Salvador, and its surrounding area, houses around 70% of the country’s total population. A population that managed to stay low until the 20th century.
Today, the city is the political, cultural, educational, and financial center for El Salvador. The Pipil indigenous group held the original location until the Spanish arrived. The Pipil abandoned the site, hoping to prevent subjugation of Spanish rule. Upon arrival, the Conquistadors occupied the former settlement and developed it.
Founded April 1st, 1525, the Conquistadors were unaware that it was April Fool’s Day. This is most likely why they relocated on two occasions. The first in 1528, followed by another, 17 years later, in 1545. Jokes aside, they relocated due to seismic activity, which influenced the development of the city’s location.
300 years later, the capital was damaged by a large earthquake during the eruption of Boquerón in 1917. Fortunately for the inhabitants, the lava flow ran down the backside of the volcano, sparing thousands of lives and homes. Until recently, the volcano laid at rest in a dormant state.
San Salvador experienced its golden age between 1960 and 1980. Security increased, as did the quality of life along with the modernization of the city. This era did not last long. The commencement of the Salvadorian civil war, in the early 80’s, halted many modernization projects. Including what was going to be the tallest building in the country, a skyscraper. It would have stretched 40 stories high or roughly 160 meters (525 feet).
In 1986, an earthquake destroyed several government buildings and other important city structures. It injured and killed hundreds of people, while thousands more were displaced. A new era of peace began on January 6th, 1992, with the signing of a peace treaty. This brought the end of the 12-year civil war that ravaged the country. Today that date is, and celebrated, as a National Holiday.
Climate
San Salvador is home to a tropical wet and dry climate. The region experiences exceedingly warm to hot weather year-round. The hottest months tend to be April and May. Temperatures can spike as high as 38°C (104°F) during the transition into rainy season. Rainy season extends from May through October, with the dry season arriving from November through April. Thunderstorms occur almost daily during rainy season. These occur in the afternoon and through the night. By morning the sky tends to clear and stay sunny until the afternoon storms arrive.
Is San Salvador Safe?
One of the main questions, not only about the city, but the country, is it safe? Here’s the thing, are any big cities safe? What big city doesn’t experience gang violence? San Salvador, and the rest of the country for that matter, are the unfortunate beneficiaries of said violence. El Salvador has some of the highest murder rates in the world. Yet, this does not apply to tourist areas. In fact, El Salvador has recently made massive strides toward addressing these issues.
The week before my arrival, there were 62 simultaneous killings across the country. Each of which was gang related. The country slid into a state of emergency. The outcome was more than 40,000 arrests across the country during a three-month period. I spent three weeks in El Salvador and never experienced anything frightening. Now that is not to say that it couldn’t happen. The rule of thumb is to practice the same safety standards you would in any major city, and you should be fine.
Plaza Salvador del Mundo
There are tons of things to do in the sprawling metropolis. Activities should keep any traveler entertained for at least a couple of days. Don’t miss out on visiting the infamous Plaza Salvador del Mundo. The plaza, and area around it, is one of the safest in the city. Plus, it’s where all the happenings are happening. During a walk about, be sure to explore downtown and stop into a museum or two along the way.
Papusas!
Don’t miss the chance to try the always delicious national food, pupusas! A pupusa is a delightful treat of corn or rice dough stuffed with beans, cheese, and/or meat then fried to perfection. Locals tend to eat these for dinner, but don’t let this stop you from having it as snack at any point during the day. Expect to pay around $2 for four of these little delicacies. They’re cheap, delicious, and almost always filling!
Something for Everyone
If you’re not limited on time, or budget, then there’s a ton of things to do. Go climb a volcano, go for a hike, go shopping, or go explore the beautiful Ruta de Flores. Don’t miss out on your chance to visit the nearby pre-Colombian archeological site of Joya de Cerén.
UNESCO World Heritage Site: Joya de Cerén
Joya de Cerén is El Salvador’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit with a quick daytrip from either San Salvador or Santa Ana. Entrance is $10 per person for foreigners and $1 for locals with a Salvadorian ID. It is open Tuesdays through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. The site includes a small museum and a short walking path around the ruins. To get here, take a bus or taxi to the main OCC (short for Occidente) Terminal and take bus 108 destined for Opico for $0.75 per person. This bus will drop you off, and pick you back up, directly in front of the archeological site.
It is the only Mayan archeological site that highlights the daily practices of peasant communities. 14 Layers of ash preserved this ancient Mayan village. Sometimes referred to as the “Pompeii of the West”, it can be a little underwhelming for visitors. Especially for those that have been to the massive sites further north, such as Chichén Itzá, Copán, and Tikal.
If you’re a fan of history and visiting archeological sites, then do not let that stop you. often, I found the site to be fascinating. I loved getting a glimpse into the lives of the people that inhabited the area thousands of years ago. I found it captivating how many of the traditions are still applied today.
Tribulations of Travel
My time in San Salvador was much longer than I expected or wanted. Yet, that comes with the woes of permanent travel. I had a minor medical emergency that I needed to address. Luckily, it was not serious but still important. After three consecutive days of doctor visits and an extra weekend between, I discovered a new travel companion, a kidney stone. Staying hydrated has become even more important than it was before.
Do I Recommend Visiting?
I enjoyed my time in the capital city of San Salvador. I would return here, but not for any specific reason. More so, to transfer to the southern reaches of the country. I hear some amazing things about the southern half. I’m told there are many pristine jungles with mountains and volcanoes waiting for explorers. If you haven’t been here, then I’d recommend a one- or two-day visit. But don’t feel you need more than that, it’s likely you’ll be able to see everything you want in the allotted time.
Quick Notes
- Joya de Cerén Entrance Fee: $10 foreigners, $1 Locals
- Joya de Cerén Hours of Operation: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-4pm
- Take bus 108 destination Opico for $0.75. Drops off directly in front of site.
