Utila, Honduras has some of the most affordable diving prices in the world. It’s known as a backpacker’s destination, but it is far from that. It’s a destination geared toward the younger and middle-aged party travelers. But don’t let that stop you from a visit. Utila’s an incredible destination with some of the best diving in the world.
The island is 18 kilometers (11 miles) long, 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) wide, and 40 kilometers (25 miles) east of the Honduran coast, across from La Ceiba. It is the smallest of the major Honduran Bay Islands in the department of Islas de la Bahía, behind Guanaja and Roatán. Located at the south end of the Mesoamerican Great Barrier Reef, the second largest in the world.
During his 4th voyage, Utila was first documented by Christopher Columbus. The island is home to the Garifuna culture. This Afro-Caribbean culture combines fishing and farming practices with a mixture of South American and African music, dance, and spirituality. Utila’s population is a mix of international locations. The majority of which tends to be English or Dutch.
The pre-Colombian culture that ruled Utila was the Paya, today they go by the Pech. Archeological, historical, and ethnographic evidence indicates that these people inhabited the island before the arrival of the Europeans in the 1500’s. Columbus went on to pillage the island and the locals, to bolster the slave trade.
Pirate Lore
The Spanish began colonizing the island during the early 16th century. Over the course of the following century, they plundered the island and eliminated the natives by the early 17th century. Britain attempted to out-colonize the Spanish. They occupied the Bay Islands on and off between 1550 and 1700.
Buccaneers found the mostly vacated islands as a haven for safe harbor and transport. Utila is rich in pirate lore. Even today, scuba divers search for the sunken treasure of the infamous pirate of the Caribbean, Captain Morgan. Morgan had who lost his booty from his raid on Panama in 1674.
English, French, and Dutch pirates established settlements on the islands. They raided Spanish cargo vessels that were laden with gold, among other goods, from the New World. Capitan Morgan established his base at Port Royal on Roatán. 30 kilometers (18.6 miles) from the Utila coast. During the 17th century, there were around 5,000 pirates living in the region.
A Growing Industry
Utila is currently experiencing excessive growth from the tourism industry. The island is small and doesn’t have the amenities for the level of tourism that’s growing here. I spoke with the locals and discovered that much of the Marine life has disappeared from around the island.
Honduras in general has a bad reputation when it comes to the rest of the world. In fact, the country experiences the world’s largest murder rate at 90 per 100,000 inhabitants. Yet, in Utila, the main concerns circles around sunburns, invasive lionfish, what to eat, and where to drink.
The crime in Honduras is more nuanced that statistics suggest. Practice big city safety precautions and all should be fine. Do not walk alone late at night. Do not flash expensive electronics and avoid getting involved in drug activities.
The main concerns on Utila tend to be petty theft. But the island has a strong community that looks out for one another. I saw several occasions that the locals would take to social media when something went missing. Much of the time it’d help the owner get back their item. Albeit not every time, which is why it is prudent to be aware of where your things are and your surroundings too.
Scuba & Things To Do
This small Caribbean Island has a quant town focused on scuba diving. There are more than 80 dive sites around the island alone. It’s the perfect place to learn or deepen a scuba practice. But that’s not all, go snorkeling, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, deep sea fishing, or hiking at pumpkin hill. Don’t miss out on exploring the freshwater caves east of town. Also, try local artisanal chocolate at the Utila Chocolate Company. Or soak up some sun, put down some drinks, and have a picnic while spending time relaxing at the beach.
Where to Stay & Dive
The island has around 17 dive shops. Most of which include accommodations with a PADI certification program. 17 is a lot and that can be overwhelming when deciding where to stay. I got lucky and found a good one without researching first.
When disembarked from the ferry, my friend said she was heading down to Underwater Vision. Where she was going to do her certifications with accommodations included. So, I decided to check them out. You can also find budget accommodations through Hostelworld, or there’s more lavish options available on Booking.
I found myself pleased with their excellent facilities. These included a private beach and affordable prices, the most important parts. They even updated the facilities while I stayed here. The program will determine the accommodations included in the price when getting certified. After those nights expire, it costs $8 for a dorm bed with diving and $12 without. If you’ve never been diving before then take a Discover Scuba course for $109 USD.
Underwater Vision offers the Open Water Certification for $329. As mentioned, this includes the four nights of accommodations! If already certified, then fun diving packages begin with two dives for $68 and go up from there. Prefer a little more privacy than a dorm? Then a private room with a/c is $52 per night without diving and $42 with.
All dorm rooms fit four people and have two bunk beds with shared bathrooms. There were three showers, cleaned daily, and a kitchen if you want to use it. Yet, I found eating out to be around the same price as cooking.
Baleadas & Where to Eat
Almost everything in Utila is within walking distance. I recommend eating at either Mama Rosa’s #2 or La Casita. Both are perfect to try the national dish of Honduras, the baleada. A baleada is a flour tortilla stuffed with a layer of smashed refried red beans, crema, a crumbled “queso duro” (hard salty cheese) and filled with various ingredients from there. My personal favorite was the pollo con aguacate (or chicken with avocado). La Casita has a fantastic selection of fish and other local dishes as well. Yet, the baleadas at Mama Rosa’s are the superior option.
Underwater Vision has its own restaurant named Trudy’s. The restaurant features a rotating menu with themes like pizza night and BBQ night. They’re a little more expensive than eating baleadas. But are, an excellent way to spoil oneself after a long day in the water. I recommend getting the “1/2 breakfast burrito” for breakfast or the full order for brunch. The breakfast baleadas gets filled with eggs and bacon, along with the normal ingredients.
Pizza night, at Trudy’s on Fridays, is the place for Pizza. Yet, there’s also Pizza Nut for a delicious, but expensive alternative. I stopped here almost daily to get their chocolate chip cookies. They were some of the best I’ve had and only cost 25 Lempira ($1 USD) each. If you’re feeling frisky, then you can buy three for 70L. But be sure to stop in early, as they sell out daily.
Hydrate! Hydrate! Hydrate!
After a long day in the water, or on the boat, be sure to rehydrate with coconuts. They’re sold for 30L ($1.22) and include a small snack. A coconut is the only food source that produces actual water. Yes, there are some fruits that have water in them, but they don’t produce water itself. Coconuts are jam packed with electrolytes, they’re hydrating, and super healthy too.
Sometimes the gentlemen that sells coconuts is not out. When this happens, hit up a local shop for some cheap Gatorade, Powerade, or Oralectryl. All the water on the island gets filtered and has zero nutritional content. Albeit still good in moderation, it’s missing the essential electrolytes. This is where the Oralectryl comes into play. They’re cheap and packed full of the necessary nutrients to hydrate. Visitors of Utila experience the symptoms of dehydration due to the lack of nutrient rich water. So be sure to drink plenty of electrolytes during a visit.
Getting Here
Getting to the island is simple. When coming from the ancient Mayan city of Copán, take a bus to San Pedro Sula for 160L ($6.51). Get off and transfer, in station, to La Ceiba for 180L ($7.32), then take a taxi for 50L ($2) to the Utila Dream ferry dock. The ferry from La Ceiba costs 750L ($30.51) for adults, 562.50L ($22.88) for seniors, and 375L ($15.27) for children under 12. All tickets are one-way.
I’ll take this moment to note, when ready to leave the island, and return to La Ceiba, there are only two ferries each day. One is at 7 am and the other is 320 pm, so plan accordingly. There is also a separate 25L ($1) dock fee. It’s technically required but no one checks for this, making it not necessary to pay. For example, staff only told one person out of my group of three to pay. Pay outside of the main ferry office, at a separate desk. It is a little confusing to find.
Final Thoughts
Utila is an incredible island that should fit any budget. I spent a month and a half enjoying the laidback island life and diving almost daily. During my visit, I got both my rescue diver and divemaster certifications. Now, I am a professional scuba diver, who completed more than 60 dives. I loved the relaxed vibes and peaceful way of life on the island. Utila’s a place I could live in, and move to, but at the same time a place I’d prefer to keep as a vacation destination. It’s a place I look forward to returning to in the future. 10/10 I definitely recommend.
Quick Notes:
- Coming from Copán: Take bus to San Pedro Sula:160L ($6.51). Then bus to La Ceiba: 180L ($7.32). Taxi to ferry: 50L ($2)
- Utila Dream ferry: Adults – 750L ($30.51) Seniors – 562.50L ($22.88) Kids under 12 – 375L ($15.27) (all one-way tickets) Dock Fee – 25L ($1)
- There are only two ferries back to Honduras: Every Day @ 7 am & 320 pm
- Stay at Underwater Vision Dormitory: $8/night w/ diving & $12/night w/o diving. Private Room: $42 w/diving & $52 w/o diving
- Underwater Vision Certifications: Discover Scuba Diving – $109 Open & Advanced Open Water Diver – $329 ReActivate Program – $120
