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León Viejo Entrance Sign

León Viejo, Nicaragua: A Complete Guide

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León Viejo is the site of the ruins to the original city of León. I’ll be covering everything you need to know about visiting this site with my complete guide. The archeological site is accessible from León via a short-day trip. In 2011, UNESCO designated León Viejo as Nicaragua’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The UNESCO Site was first uncovered in 1931. It went forgotten for another 38 years, until rediscovery in 1967. Since then, it’s been continuously excavated, with building surveys and scientific studies. There have been several works of conservation over the years.

León Conservation
The roof helps preserve the ruins of the cathedral.

León Viejo is an exceptional testimony to the first European settlements in the New World. Founded June 15th, 1524, by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Hernández de Córdoba. Only two years later, in 1526, Francisco’s Lieutenant, and town governor decapitated Francisco. Hung in the main square, it was a swift trial for treason.

Located in the department of León, León Viejo experienced a series of natural disasters. These led to the abandonment of the city and moved it to where the modern-day León is today. León Viejo is next to the town of Puerto Momotombo. It’s on Lago Xolotlán (Lake Xolotlán) in the shadow of Volcan Momotombo. Only 53 kilometers (33 miles) southeast of León and 68 kilometers (42 miles) northwest of Managua, Nicaragua’s capital.

16th Century Ruins
The grid system of this 16th century Spanish settlement provides an important insight into the layout of the city.

Volcan Momotombo erupted in 1578 and covered up the settlement. Volcanic activity leave’s the region prone to seismic activity. This factored into León’s exposure to a devastating earthquake in 1610. It destroyed what remained standing. Overtime, the city was gradually buried from natural disasters. Thus, preserving the vestiges in their unaltered environment without undergoing any changes.

The lack of development led to the remarkable testimony of the economic and social structures of the 16th century Spanish empire. The natural disasters preserved the layout, from before the Laws of the Indies for more than 350 years, of one of Central America’s first cities. The original 16th century settlement includes the grid system and Plaza Mayor (Main Square). Both common during the period.

Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor is the final resting place of Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, the founder of León Viejo.

Getting Here:

The ruins cover 32 hectares (78 acres) of land. They’re a perfect example of town planning and archeology of the 16th century. Read my guide on the city of León for where to stay and what to do during your visit. Visiting these from León is simple. The most expensive route of travel would be to taxi straight to the archeological site. The most convenient, but also pricey, route of travel is with a car rental and GoogleMaps.

The Budget route is public transportation. If beginning in the center of León, there are two ways to get to the bus terminal. Either by taxi or by walking. Taking a taxi from the center should not cost more than 40 Córdobas ($1.11 USD). I’ll note that I had a cab driver try and charge more. If this happens, I recommend waiting two minutes, and catch a different taxi. The most cost-effective way is to walk. It takes about 20-30 minutes depending on the pace.

Public Transportation

From the main bus terminal, take a bus destined for La Paz Centro for 25C ($0.70). Buses leave every hour and take around 45 minutes. Transfer in La Paz Centro for Puerto Momotombo for 17C ($0.47). This ride lasts for about 20 minutes, get off when you see the sign that says León Viejo with an arrow. There’s also the option to take a Tuk-tuk moto cab. The trip between Puerto Momotombo and La Paz Centro costs 20C ($0.56). I recommend using the Tuk-tuk as it significantly cuts down wait times for the bus.

Ruin Excavations
A top view of one of the excavated ruins.

Entrance Fees

The walk after the bus takes about 10 minutes. I found the town folk of Puerto Momotombo to be friendly. They would constantly wave and say hi. If you have the time, stop and chat with some locals. Entrance to León Viejo’s Archeological Site is 179C ($5) and includes a free walking tour. Usually, they have guides that speak English. Unfortunately for me, that person was not there when I arrived and only Spanish was available.

The tour leads through two museums. Both of which outline the history of the site and the local indigenous cultures. My guide highlighted that the valley had a population of around 15,000 inhabitants before the arrival of the Spanish. After finishing up in the museums, my guide allowed me to comb the site on my own. This allowed me to take as much time as I needed for photographs.

Two Museums & Exploring the Site

There are two museums at the beginning of the site, both in Spanish only. The rest of the site, however, was both English and Spanish. This is underwhelming and only takes about an hour or two to see. Most of the site highlights the grid system put in place by the Spanish. While many of the ruins are leftover foundations of modern style buildings.

León Viejo Museum Artifacts
Artifacts from one of the León Viejo museums.

There were a few restored structures. This includes the sites cathedral, “Catedral Santa Maria de las Gracias.” I found these interesting and each unique in its own right. They show the similarities between today’s modern city and its ancient origins.

What to Bring

I recommend bringing bug spray and sunscreen. During my visit, I felt I was being eaten alive. The nearby lake and stale water sources create a breeding ground for mosquitos and bugs. Don’t forget to bring water as well. There were no shops inside the site and the sun is intense. There are few sections of shade, but they do exist.

Final Thoughts

I probably would not return to this site again. I felt one time was more than enough. Yet still a very rewarding experience. The view of Volcan Momotombo and the lake are worth the trek alone. So much so that I would recommend anyone visiting León to stop in to see. This would be the perfect experience to bring the family. There’s lots of open space for kids to run around while the adults learn about the history of the ruins. Yet, as noted, this isn’t a site you need to go out of the way to visit. If you like historical sites and architecture, then it’s the place for you!

Volcan Momotombo
The incredible view of Volcan Momotombo, and smaller Volcan Mombotombito on the right.

Quick Notes:

  • Entrance Fee León Viejo Archeological Site 179 Cordoba’s ($5USD) per person
  • Taxi from León Central to Terminal 40C ($1.11) (one-way)
  • Bus between León and La Paz Centro 25C ($0.70 USD) (one-way)
  • Bus between La Paz Centro and Puerto Momotombo 17C ($.047)
  • Tuk-tuk between La Paz Centro and Puerto Momotombo 20C ($0.56)

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