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Xunantunich: Best Mayan Ruins of Belize

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Xunantunich Mayan Ruins-Belize

Dear constant reader, thank you for your patience over the last month. I wanted to write but instead found humility having had my computer break down to the point of not being able to turn on. Well that chapter is behind me, and my computer has been fixed. I look forward to sharing new articles with you about the amazing places I’ve visited. I hope that my articles inspire you to pack up and go see the world. It’s a beautiful place that’s just waiting to be explored! After much ado, here is my newest article about the incredible Mayan Archeological Site of Xunantunich in western Belize.

The Xunantunich Mayan archeological site is one of Belize’s top 5 sites and it just might be the best one. The location of the site makes it easily accessible, being only eight miles (13 kilometers) west of Belize’s second largest city, San Ignacio and 70 miles (113 kilometers) west of Belize City in the Cayo district. The reserve itself is relatively small and only a ¼ of a hectare.

The site is positioned on an artificially levelled limestone ridge that measures 183 meters (600 feet) above sea level. Xunantunich overlooks the Mopan River .6 miles (1 kilometer) from the Guatemalan border. The site is well developed with several groups of buildings and structures that visitors can explore. The main area of the was once used as a civil ceremonial center. The region’s most prestigious period was in the Late Terminal Classic, between 700 and 1000 AD. It is believed that more than 200,000 residents lived in the valley during this time.

El Castillo
The impressive El Castillo is the biggest structure in this Archeological Reserve.

The name of this ancient city, Xunantunich, is pronounced zoo·naan·tuh·nuhch. The name derives from a combination Nahuatl and Yucatec Mayan words. The modern name means “Maiden of the Rock.” Xunaan literally translates to “noble lady” while Tuunich translates to “stone for sculpture.” The ancient name, however, is unknown. The meaning of the new name is deeply rooted in mysticism and legend.

The “Maiden of the Rock” refers to the ghost of a woman that is claimed to inhabit the site with origins around 1892. When seen, the lady is dressed completely in white with glowing red eyes. She generally appears in front of “El Castillo,” where she ascends the stairs and disappears through a stone wall.

The sites center radiates outward and includes smaller settlements for several square kilometers. The main epicenter has four major archeological groups, with Group A being the most prominent. This group is dominated by the most photographed and recognizable structure from the site, the aforementioned “El Castillo.” El Castillo is the largest structure of Xunantunich and sits at an impressive 40 meters (131 feet) tall. The structure looms over the rest of the site and off offers a stunning panorama that extends into the hills of Belize.

Xunantunich Panorama
The top of El Castillo offers sweeping views of the entire site and the surrounding hills.

This large multilayered complex was believed to be used as a housing structure, shrine, and administration hub for the elites and rulers of the ancient city. El Castillo is often mistaken as the main temple of the site due to the prominence and imposing nature of the temple. On both the west and east ends of the summit, visitors would be hard pressed to miss the large stucco friezes that display beautifully carved elements of astronomical symbols, such as the sun god, moon, and Venus.

The regular people of Xunantunich lived in small dispersed self-sustaining farming villages. The residential groups were believed to be kin-based and spread out widely over the landscape. In fact, the main center is rather small in comparison. The settlement densities would have depended on soil quality, proximity to rivers, and political histories. It is believed that the local farmers were long established on their plots and would not want to align with a polity that was under constant upheaval from invading forces.

The first known explorations of the site were conducted by Thomas Gann during the 1890’s. Gann resettled from Britain in 1892 and served as the district surgeon and commissioner of Cayo, British Honduras. Gann chose to settle in the area due to his interest in Mayan archeology. This was paired with a desire to explore what were at the time known as the unknown wonders of the indigenous people.

Hand Cranked Ferry
There is a hand cranked ferry that crosses the Mopan River, allowing visitors to reach the Archeological Reserve.

Xunantunich is the perfect morning or afternoon trip from San Ignacio, and an excellent full day adventure from either Belmopan or Belize City. The site is located across the Mopan River from San Jose Succotz. If coming from San Ignacio take either a bus or a taxi which should cost about five Belize Dollars for either one. If in a taxi, you’ll have the option to get transported across the hand cranked ferry directly to the site entrance.

Visitors can save a couple of bucks and enjoy a short one mile (1.6 kilometers) hike on an uphill paved road that is covered by trees. The bridge ferry is open from 730 am to 4 pm. The reserve offers restroom facilities, picnic areas, and gift shops with drinks, snacks, and souvenirs. The entrance fee is only $10 Belize Dollars and well worth every penny.

I spent a half day here, visiting from the nearby San Ignacio. My afternoon at this archeological site was unforgettable. The ruins are, for the most part, open to exploration. Visitors can walk up to the top of four or five pyramids with the option to explore the stone stalls where a market stood thousands of years ago.

Market Stalls
This ruin structure is believed to be the home of an Ancient Marketplace.

I would recommend anyone that is stopping into Belize to not miss out on this incredible site. The price is more than affordable, and the site is accessible to all age groups. It is the perfect stop for both backpackers and families alike. If you’re making a stop into Belize, then do yourself a favor and take the time, pack a picnic and stop by these magnificent ruins and surround yourself in the ancient past.


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