Bocas del Toro is a province in northeastern Panama. Find out everything you need to know about visiting with this complete visitor’s guide. This little slice of island paradise encompasses the entire Bocas del Toro Archipelago. This includes the Bahia Almirante, Chiriquí Lagoon, and the adjacent mainland. The capital city is on the largest island, Isla Colón. As of 2020, the island houses a staggering 179,990 inhabitants.
Bocas del Toro features nine main islands, that include thousands of islets and cays. It’s between the Talamanca Mountain range and the Caribbean islands of Bocas del Toro. The area features lush biodiversity and a dense mountain cloud forest rainforest. It also includes the expansive mangrove ecosystems. This is Panama’s top eco-tourism destination and home to two National Parks. Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park and La Amistad International Park.
National Parks
Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park is Parque Nacional Marina Isla Bastimentos in Spanish. It is Panama’s first National Marine Park. The Park features several islands. This includes Cayo Zapatilla Major, most of Isla Bastimentos, and several minor islands. The park extends into a large nature preserve, Red Frog Beach Island Resorts. The protected area covers 13,226 hectares (32,682 acres). It protects more than 80 rare coral species believed to be more than 10,000 years old. It also protects important rare mangrove ecosystems. There are monkeys, sloths, caimans, and crocodiles protected as well. Along with 28 species of amphibians and reptiles.
La Amistad International Park is Parque Internacional La Amistad in Spanish. This park shares the Costa Rica Panama border. This UNESCO World Heritage Site protects that more than 984,592 hectares (2,432,980 acres). Designated in 1983, it is one of Central Americas most outstanding conservation areas. It features more than 10,000 flowering plant and protects a staggering 600 species of birds. The park has more than 215 species of mammals and another 250 species of reptiles and amphibians too. Five species of big cats roam the park, jaguars, jaguarundi, margays, ocelots, and pumas.
Some History
Bocas was first visited by Europeans. Arrival of Christopher Columbus and his crew occurred in 1502. They were in search of safe passage to the Pacific, upon discovering the province. They used the regions calm waters and fertile grounds to rest and make repairs. He named several of the islands, with both Colón and Cristóbal in reference to himself.
In the 17th century, the region was a pirate haven. Taking after Columbus, the pirates used the islands as a place to build and repair their ships. The Spanish ignored the area due to its lack of gold compared with the rest of Panama. In fact, it was largely avoided due to pirate trouble. Treasure hunters continue to scour the region even today. Fueled by the rumors of buried treasure that persist, still undiscovered.
During the 19th century, the population experienced a boom. Wealthy aristocrats arrived from Jamaica, and other British colonies, attempting to avoid taxes. They brought slaves and cultivated banana plantations, cacao, sarsaparilla, coconut, and sugar cane. There was a thriving turtle industry as well. At least, until populations became threatened or endangered.
Founded in 1826, Bocas Town is the economic center of the island. It’s the countries third most important city, due to the booming banana industry. After the island abolished slavery, many landowners left. Leaving their slaves behind to fend for themselves. In 1890, three American brothers established the Snyder Brothers Banana Company.
This ushered in the boom of the banana business, often referred to as “oro verde”, or green gold. In 1899, the United Fruit Company bought out the banana plantations. They set up business in Bocas town, and today, are part of the well-known Chiquita brand. The company annually exports three-quarters of a million tons of bananas.
Originally, the island belonged to Costa Rica. Yet, Colombia took them by force. Panama joined Colombia in the early 19th century. Panama ceded from Spanish control in 1821, to join Colombia. In 1834, the government created the “Bocas” reservation. It wasn’t until 1903 that Panama would regain its sovereignty. There were several changes in provinces, which included the division of the region. The government solidified the province in 1970. They added three new districts, forming what it is today.
The Smithsonian Institute operates a research station on Isla Colón. Found to the northwest of town, it’s their only bureau outside of the United States. They’re researching to understand the past, present, and future effects of tropical ecosystems. This includes valuable research into how these ecosystems are relevant to human welfare.
Climate Expectations
High season coincides with dry season. The best waves and weather are between November and April. The best months to visit are often considered January-March, May, September, and October. Dry weather is common in both June and November. Yet, it overlaps with the wet season and can be very unpredictable.
Rainy season is astonishingly wet. August experiences more than 130 inches of rain each year. To give perspective, Seattle is infamous for experiencing heavy rain. Yet, they only have an average of 38 inches each year. The wettest month tends to be December. This is when the region experiences an average of 564 inches of rain. The island can go the entire month without seeing the sun.
This amount of rain is exactly why the region’s agricultural product is bananas. There are several plantations. As mentioned above, Chiquita is the major producer and exporter. They helped grow, sustain, and propagate a remote economy. Allowing the islands inhabitants to thrive more than the average Central American. The economy’s other 95% thrives from tourism.
Things To Do
Bocas del Toro is a frequent stopover for the backpacking community. It’s quite popular due to its imminence with the Costa Rican border. Logistically, it makes sense as a backpacker to break up a long route of travel. Visitors can explore bat caves, learn about a vibrant indigenous culture, or go for a tour on a cacao farm. Choose between relaxing on a beach and discovering the rainforest. Yet, my favorite thing to do is boosting adrenaline levels and going Scuba diving. For those that enjoy it, there is surfing too.
My Experience
During my visit, the weather was unrelenting, and the rain was constant. I stayed four nights and five days, experiencing one stunning afternoon. The rest of my days were between the grocery store and hostel while avoiding the rain. I went for a handful of walks when the weather broke. I enjoyed the much-needed rest and relaxation. It would have been nice to explore the amazing sites around the island, but I’ll take what I can get.
Popular Sites
The most popular sites are Bastimentos National Marine Park and Starfish Beach. Also, don’t miss Red Frog Beach, Bluff Beach, Hospital Point, and the Zapatilla Islands. Starfish beach sounds like a dream beach to visit during a picturesque afternoon. Several people returned to the hostel on our clear day, describing a bucket list beach. Several starfish orient themselves along the beach front, giving the beach its name. Swim with dozens of the gentle sea creatures and get the perfect Instagram pictures. But please, don’t be the guy that ignores the signs about not picking them up. Let them be, this way everyone can continue to enjoy the site.
Take a boat tour and visit the nearby Sloth Island. It’s an island packed with adorable, sleepy eyed, smiling sloths. Hanging around the protected mangroves, they fill their insatiable appetite. Visitors may not step foot on the island, but they get a chance to circle it by boat. Tour guides provide guests with in-depth information about the island.Learn about the sloths that inhabit it and the ecosystem that sustains it. Sign up for a tour now, or upon arrival to Bocas, as boats leave daily.
Bocas has a handful of diving companies that offer different kinds of dives. Diving Pirates offers a two-tank dive for $80 per person when booking in person. When booking online, the price increases to $90 per person. Dives include all the required safety equipment., while dive sites vary. Choose between deep walls, shallow reefs, coral barriers, and shipwrecks to boot.
Getting There & Around
For a group of islands, getting to Bocas del Toro is simple. Busses leave daily from major cities around Panama. Book cheaper bus tickets in advance through Busbud for the best prices. When coming from Costa Rica, it is possible to book a direct shuttle from Puerto Viejo. I’ll take this moment to note, there are shuttles waiting after crossing the Panama border. They drive tourists to a ferry destined for Bocas. The shuttle cost $12 USD, while the ferry cost $10. I was able to save $2 by buying, an open, roundtrip ticket.
The easiest way to get here, and most expensive, is via rental car and Google Maps. Unfortunately, this will incur extra charges to park safely, and ferry to the island. Yet, it provides the freedom to explore what the island has to offer. There are several shops offering bicycle rentals or a scooter rental for the day. Due to the high levels of rain during my visit, I failed to ask for the prices.
Selecting Accommodations
During my visit, I stayed at Cliff’s Hostel. It was by far the most affordable accommodation on the island. Priced at $10 per night with breakfast included. Make reservations through Hostelworld to find the best prices. Hostelworld features the lowest prices for budget hostels and is the best app to use. Booking.com offers more lavish accommodations. Yet, is still the best option for cheap hotels or guestrooms for rent.
Final Thoughts
Bocas del Toro is a frequent stop by the backpacking community. It’s not a destination that I would recommend to my friends, family, or anyone asking if it’s as amazing as advertised. It’s not that I didn’t like Bocas, I just didn’t see the appeal. There are several similar destinations that with significantly less rain. I would only recommend visiting during one of the drier months. Or, while backpacking through Central America, as it’s perfect for breaking up a long trip. Instead, save some money and discover a cheaper, more accessible destination.
Quick Notes:
- Shuttle price from Costa Rica – Panama border: $12/person USD
- Ferry price – $6 (one-way) $10 (roundtrip w/ open return date)
- Visit two National Parks. – Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park – La Amistad International Park (A UNESCO Site)
- The best waves and weather are between November and April
- Avoid December and it’s average of 564 inches of rain
- Starfish Beach – Flooded with Starfish, swim with these gentle creatures
- Go for a 2-tank Scuba Dive with Diving Pirates for $80/person (booked in person) or $90/person (when booked online)
- Stay at Cliff’s Hostel for $10/night
