The city of Campeche is the capital of the southern Mexican state of the same name and is the Yucatán’s hidden gem. Campeche is the largest city in the state, with a population of 928,363 according to the 2020 census. The city was founded in 1540 and was the first township established in the Spanish conquest. Depending on the travel route, Campeche tends to either be the first or last stop in the Yucatán Peninsula. However, it often gets skipped making it a little off the beaten path.
The state and city of Campeche are on the gulf coast. Campeche is bordered by Chiapas in the southwest, along with the state of Yucatán to the east and Quintana Roo to the south with Tabasco oriented to the north. Both Guatemala and Belize make up the final borders.
Campeche was and is a major sea port for the Yucatán Peninsula. The city itself was fortified with walls to protect the city from pirate attacks during both the 16th and 17th centuries. Due to the importance of the seaport, Campeche was fundamental for the Spanish conquest and evangelization of the Yucatán Peninsula, Chiapas, and Guatemala.
Wall Fortifications began in 1610 and helped protect the citizens of Campeche from more than 21 major pirate attacks throughout the colonial period. The worst attack occurred in 1685. Campeche was sacked for 30 days by the famous pirate and his crew, Laurens de Graaf. Laurens and his pirates killed more than 1/3 of the region’s population, prompting major fortifications that took 24 years to complete.
During this time the Spanish added multiple forts and completed construction on a wall that measured 2,560-meters (or 8,400 feet) around the city center. The wall stood strong for the city of Campeche, as only one pirate attack was able to breach through in 1708. Campeche remained walled up until 1890. Most of the forts still stand today, including a 500-meter (or 1,600 feet) portion of the original wall.
The standing sections of fortifications, along with the preservation of the city caused UNESCO to name the city of Campeche as World Heritage Site. The city itself has more than 2,000 preserved colonial buildings, with several museums scattered throughout the center. The original walls connect to the four forts and main gates. All four gates still stand along with eight Baluartes (or Bastions) that would have provided defensive views of these fortifications.
The two main forts are Fuerte San Jose to the north, and Fuerte San Miguel to the south. Both of which have small museums to explore. These museums provide a brief history of Campeche while also allowing visitors to walk a section of the wall. These simultaneously provide some incredible panoramic views of the city. The entrance fees to these smaller museums average 10-15 MXN, helping to fund and preserve the site for future visitors.
This city was a rich and important port during the colonial period, however, it declined after Mexico’s Independence in 1810. Due to political friction with the neighboring city of Mérida, Campeche acquired its independence in the mid-19th century from the Yucatán state. During the 1970’s the city saw an economic revival thanks to the discovery of offshore petroleum in the Gulf of México.
The region of Campeche has always been heavily influenced by Mayan culture. The city was built on top of a Mayan settlement and has several important ruin sites in the region. In fact, there are over 55 archeological sites along the coast alone. The three most important and best sites to visit are Becán, Calakmul, and Edzna.
Each of these three sites are special in their own right, but the most important of them is hands down Calakmul. The archeological site of Calakmul was one of the most important Mayan cities during most of the classic period. It’s located 35 kilometers (or 22 miles) north of the Guatemalan border, deep in the jungle. If you want to visit this site, then it is highly recommended to take a tour from Campeche. Getting to these alone is not only stressful due to their secluded nature but also an expensive adventure. This site is so extensive that I’ll be doing a full in-depth guide on the site in a separate article.
Campeche is the perfect place to visit after spending some time in the busy tourist centers of Quintana Roo. Visitors can take in the ambiance and enjoy laid-back vibes with a short two- or three-night stay in this colorful city. This time frame is perfect to take a walk along the Malécon (or waterfront walkway) and catch the stunning sunset behind the colorful Campeche city sign, to stop into a few museums and explore the cities previous fortifications, and to walk the city center where visitors can grab a bite to eat within view of the main square and cathedral.
Octopus and Flavors of the Maya
The entire region of the Yucatán was Mayan territory, and several elements from Mayan culture persist today, especially in the food. The main staple for Mayans is corn, quickly followed by both rice and sorghum. Other important crops are jalapeños, sugar cane, and watermelon. The region is covered in various tropical and non-tropical fruits, such as mango and citrus. Oh, and don’t forget about the large varieties of seafood.
By far the most common seafoods are shrimps, crustaceans, and mollusks. However, Campeche is most known for their production of octopus. The season tends to be between August 1 and December 15, when visitors can taste a wide variety of dishes like Tinta del Mar (octopus served in its ink), ceviche with octopus, octopus tacos, octopus in garlic, and fried octopus. Other regional dishes that should not be missed are Cochinita Pibil (similar to carnitas), Chicken in Capers, Pan de Cazon (three tortillas stacked like a layer cake covered in refried beans and dogfish and smothered in a tomato sauce), and don’t miss out on the Shrimp with Coconut.
I absolutely loved the short few days spent here. The sunsets are spectacular and the people are incredibly friendly. The colonial city dressed in holiday decorations was quite special. The laid-back vibes were just what I needed after a busy day of traveling from the highlands of Chiapas. I’d love to return one day and see some of the smaller archeological sites scattered around the region. I’d highly recommend Campeche to everyone, it is the perfect destination for a couples get away, to bring the family, or escape the busy tourist centers of Quintana Roo. Don’t miss out on what the beautiful city of Campeche has to offer!
