The tallest pyramid that is still climbable in the Yucatán Peninsula can be found at the sprawling Archeological Site of Cobá, only 47 kilometers (29 miles) northwest of Tulum and 60 kilometers (37 miles) southwest from Valladolid. The pyramid, Ixmoja, is a part of the Nohoch Mul (meaning “large hill”) group of ruins in Cobá.
The impressive pyramid stands at an imposing 42 meters (137 feet), as the second tallest pyramid in the Yucatán Peninsula; trailing only the Great Pyramid of Calakmul’s 45 meters (148 feet). This ancient structure is one of the last climbable pyramids in Mexico.
Ixmoja has an intense 120 stone step climb that offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding jungle and both lagoons. Unfortunately, climbing is currently closed due to concerns surrounding the ongoing covid pandemic.
The two lagoons next to the site have helped propagate the name Cobá. In Mayan, Cobá, means “waters stirred by wind” or ruffled waters in reference to the lagoons, and the powerful winds that pierce the region.
Cobá was one of the most important city centers to ancient Mayan civilization. The city must have dominated a vast area that is believed to extend from northern Quintana Roo to the far east side of the state of Yucatán. Researchers believe that signs of Aztec influence in the Ixmoja architecture demonstrates their connection with central Mexico.
This massive site is largely unexcavated. It covers more than 80 square kilometers (50 square miles) and was first discovered by archeologists as early as the 1800’s. However, due to the Caste War combined with a dense jungle and a lack of funding, it was a difficult site to explore.
Cobá was most likely home to a major agricultural population. It was believed to support at least 50,000 inhabitants during the height of its power in the Late Classic Period between 600 and 900 AD. There is evidence that the Mayans first began to settle in the area as early as 50 BC and 100 AD.
The bulk of construction happened during the Middle and Late Classic Periods between 500 and 900 AD. It is believed that Cobá remained an important site well into the Post Classic period. As new temples were built, old ones were also restored until at least the 14th century. Most hieroglyphic inscriptions, however, are from earlier, in the 7th century.
It is believed that a lengthy power struggle with neighboring Chichén Itzá began around 900-1000 AD. Unfortunately, this ushered in the end of prominence for Cobá, eventually losing to their powerful neighbor.
It is believed that Cobá was abandoned upon arrival of the Spanish around 1550. It is estimated that there are over 6,000 structures that exist, however, only three settlements are open to the public.
This site is different from Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam, and Tulum due to the large grouping of archeological sites that interconnect to Ixmoja. These cities connect through an extensive network of ceremonial roads called Sacbe meaning “White Roads” in Mayan.
These sacbe (singular), or sacbeob (plural) are what make this archeological site unique. The network creates the largest stone causeway from the Mayan world. These ceremonial roads originate at the Ixmoja pyramid and spread out in the four cardinal directions.
There have been more than 50 of these sacbeob discovered, but only 16 are open to the public. The longest is more than 100 kilometers (62 miles), leading west to Yaxuna. The sacbeob range in size from three to nine meters (10 to 30 feet) wide and were generally used for commerce.
Cobá traded extensively with neighbors like Tulum, but also, as far south as Belize and Honduras. The city most likely utilized the nearby port cities of Muyil, Tankah, Tulum, Xcaret, and Xel-Há. The Yucatec Mayan’s commonly traded salt, fish, squash, yams, corn, honey, beans, turkey, vegetables, chocolate drinks, and even raw materials such as, limestone, marble, and jade.
The site features many stelae, or stone slabs that have drawings called hieroglyphs, depicting major historical events that happened around the region. The large number of stelae also demonstrate the ceremonial importance of the city of Cobá.
These have been used by archeologists to determine the history and movement of the Mayan people throughout the area. Unfortunately, most of these artifacts are illegible today, but continue to be important.
Cobá is in a region with a tropical climate that has an alternating wet and dry season. The dry period is between February and March, with the wet period concentrated between September and November.
The best time to visit is generally between February and March, when the temperatures average 31°C (89°F) with little rain. Tourism, however, is also heaviest during this time, so you’ll most likely see the largest crowds as well.
The site opened to the public in 1973. As of 2018, Cobá hosts more than 750,000 annual visitors. That number declined during the pandemic; however, it is expected to rise as the world returns to normal.
Getting to Cobá
Getting here is straightforward with several options to choose from. The most expensive and most convenient will be renting a car. This option gives flexibility for when to visit, how long to stay, and the ability to stop by nearby cenotes! Be aware if you decide to go this route then there will be a 70 MXN parking fee at the site.
Tours give visitors the most in depth experience while also providing guests with the most information about the site. Each city around the Yucatán has companies offering day tours to Cobá, that usually include one or two cenotes along with another archeological site. The prices for the tour can vary and it helps to check around before committing to one tour over another.
Perhaps you want something more affordable or maybe you just don’t enjoy taking tours, then you’ll probably prefer visiting by collectivo. Collectivo’s depart from both Valladolid and Tulum, unfortunately I did not get the information about making the trek from Valladolid and do not want to provide the wrong information.
From Tulum, collectivos depart from next door to the polleria (or chicken restaurant) El Pechugón, on the main strip directly across from the Tulum city sign. The cost is 70 MXN one way.
I highly recommend showing up to the collectivo early, the first scheduled departure is at 7 am. This is also smart as they generally do not depart until it full. I arrived at 9 am and had to wait nearly an hour and a half before departure. Fortunately, I still had plenty of time to explore the extensive site.
Going by ADO bus will be the most reliable route of travel. The busses leave from the ADO station as early as 720 am and run every hour. ADO busses cost the same price as going by collectivo, 70 MXN (one way). ADO busses conveniently drop off and pick up visitors directly at the entrance to the archeological site.
I found Cobá to be one of the most interesting ruin sites that I’ve visited in Mexico. It was the first site that I could really feel the vastness of a major Mayan city. The distance between the structure groups is astonishing. It is possible to walk the extensive paths, but if time is of the essence, or it just sounds fun, then rent a bicycle for 50 MXN; or take a load off and let the pedicab driver do all the work for 100 MXN per person.
Personally, I enjoy getting a little exercise and decided to walk. This was a decision I found to be exhausting but authentic as well, besides, it’s how the Mayans would have done it. The site is deep in the jungle, similar to Palenque, and provides wonderful shade from the searing sun.
Overall, I absolutely loved this archeological site. Cobá is massive, and it provides perspective on just how vast the Mayan cities were. Ixmoja is absolutely stunning to see. The pyramid climbs above the surrounding canopy and looms over the jungle. The trees are evenly spaced and provide a perfectly shaded viewing area.
I highly recommend any visitor of the Yucatán, or Quintana Roo, to stop in and marvel at this ancient city. Bring the family, gather up the kids, prepare a lunch and escape from the concrete playgrounds to spend a day learning about the ancient Mayan civilization that once occupied the area of Cobá.
Quick Notes:
- Collectivo: 70 MXN (one way)
- ADO Bus: 70 (one way)
- Parking Fee: 70 MXN
- Cobá Entrance Fee: 100 MXN
- Cobá Hours of Operation: 8 am to 4 pm Last admission is 3 pm!
