Suchitoto is the colonial capital and the original location of El Salvador’s capital. It’s my favorite part and the highlight of the country. This charming town is in the department of Cuscatlán, 51 kilometers (31.7 miles) outside of the capital, San Salvador. Surrounded by dense jungles and a massive lake, it’s a city with a rich history, exciting activities, and easygoing with its tourism.
People have inhabited this city long before the arrival of the Conquistadors in the 1500’s. As of 2020, the population stands at 23,331 inhabitants. Yet, that was due to a severe decrease in population during the arduous civil war that ravaged the countryside for 12 years. The population decreased during the war, from 34,101 inhabitants in 1971 (nine years before the war), to 13,850, when the war concluded in 1992.
Lago Suchitlán
Lago Suchitlán (or Lake Suchitlán) is a man-made lake. It is also the largest body of fresh water in the country. Its surface area stretches 135 square kilometers (52 square miles). Built to produce hydroelectricity, the construction went on to displace more than 13,000 people. Construction began in 1972 and completed then filled three years later, by 1976.
The name Suchitlán, is a Nahuatl word that means “Place of Flowers”. Today, unfortunately, it’s one of the most polluted bodies of water in Central America. I read online that people suggest going swimming and spending a day at the lake. After reading about the pollution, I would highly recommend against doing so, but if you do… it’s at your own risk.
Things to Do & See
Suchitoto has a wonderful natural landscape. Fill a visit to this beautiful town with plenty of activities to keep any traveler occupied. Explore town and get lost in the colorful streets, hangout in the town center, go shopping for high quality indigo or handmade souvenirs, explore the daily market, go on a hike, see a waterfall. There is so much to do, that about every type of traveler should stay entertained.
The town of Suchitoto is small, stretching for five streets in one direction and seven in the other. It’s filled with picturesque hotels and restaurants. Colorful shops and homes encompass it. The rolling hills overflow with streets that wind up and down in elevation. Each of which provides incredible panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. While getting lost, keep your eye out for one of the many authentic indigo shops.
Suchitoto, and El Salvador, used to be one of the biggest suppliers of authentic Indigo. At least, until a German chemist invented an artificial variant. After that, the industry was never the same. It is still the perfect place to buy the rare commodity, and at some of the highest quality as well.
Once you’ve found your way back to town center, stop for a perfectly brewed cup of coffee in the shadow of the impossibly white cathedral. Lined with colorful shops, the square has many restaurants to choose from. Trees and flower bushes fill the gaps of the fountain’s square. Every night it fills with local’s celebrating life. Live music will drift through town while tourists explore the pop-up shops in search of the perfect handmade souvenir.
Where & What to Eat
When hunger sets in, stop at one of the busy restaurants around town. Mi Suchi Burger was my favorite. The burger was fantastic and perfectly priced too. Once dinner time arrives though, there are few options to choose from. Most of what’s available are the Salvadorian staple, pupusas!
If you’ve been following my travels, then you already know exactly what these delicious treats are. For all you new readers out there, a pupusa is a corn or rice dough with various fillings like cheese, beans, and meat, then fried to perfection. Pupusas are cheap and the perfect way to save money while eating a full meal. The best part, they shouldn’t cost more than $2 for up to four.
Cascada Los Tercios: A Basalt Waterfall
My favorite activity was visiting the magnificent basalt waterfall called Cascada Los Tercios. The waterfall is only 2.3 kilometers (1.42 miles) outside of the city center. During wet or dry season, this waterfall is impressive to see. During rainy season, the water flows over the towering basalt columns that formed by volcanic activity ages ago. It is far less impressive during dry season, but don’t let that stop you. The columns are unique and a wonderful sight to see.
The square rocks jut in and out from the cliffside, running down the entire face and creating a unique backdrop with the surrounding jungle. During dry season, visitors can climb these basalt columns at their own risk. The site also offers several “miradors” or viewpoints that overlook Lake Suchitlán for an incredible panoramic view.
Entrance is only $0.50 as of April 2022. This small fee helps with the upkeep of the property and the bathrooms. In the past, there have been several reports of robberies, so it’s not generally recommended to walk here. Yet, I did this without incident or feeling any sense of danger. Well, other than the speedy cars flying around turns on the windy mountain road.
It only took me 27 minutes to cover the short walk. If taking this risk is out of your comfort zone, then feel free to ask the local tourist police to go with you. I’ve read online that they do this for free, but I’d also read they only leave once a day. I neglected to get the information for this upon deciding to go it alone. If you make the same decision, know it’s at your own risk.
Where to Stay
During a visit, I highly recommend staying at Posada Blanca Luna. It was offseason when I passed through when there tends to be less tourism. The price for this hotel was only $8 per night for a single bed in a private room with a shared bathroom. Unfortunately, the room did not have a/c, but that is an option for those that would like to spend a little more. It was an incredible change from the dorm room beds that I’ve been in for most of El Salvador. You can also check Hostel World or Booking for other budget options as well.
Public Transport to Suchitoto
Getting here is a little more complicated than some of the other places in the country, but still easy. From San Salvador’s main OCC (Occidente for short) terminal, jump on bus 7c for $0.50 destined for Plaza Mundo, where you’ll hop off. Walk one block to Terminal Nuevo Amanecer and hop on bus #140 destined for Suchitoto for $1.
Final Thoughts
The colonial architecture and cobblestone roads make Suchitoto an important tourist destination. Both simulate the vibes of Spanish living. It’s quant vibe and subtle charm are on full display. It’s a destination that I could return to, if not move to, and one I’d recommend making the trek to visit. This dream destination is full of adventure and history. The people are incredibly friendly and want to introduce you to this little slice of mountain paradise. If you’re in El Salvador, or planning a trip, then do not miss out on this little slice of heaven.
Quick Notes
- From San Salvador, take bus 7c to Plaza Mundo for $0.50. Transfer to Terminal Nuevo Amanecer & take bus #140 to Suchitoto for $1
- Cascada Los Tercios Entrance Fee: $0.50 per person
- Walk, Tuk Tuk, or Taxi 2.4 kilometer (1.42 miles) outside the city center to Cascada Los Tercios
- Eat pupusas for cheap and delicious food
- Try Mi Suchi Burger for good food at an affordable price
- Affordable accommodations at Posada Blanca Luna
