In 1993 UNESCO named Joya de Cerén as El Salvador‘s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s located in the Zapotitán Valley and sandwiched by the country’s two largest cities. In the department of La Libertad, it’s 29 kilometers (18 miles) south of Santa Ana and 33.5 kilometers (20.8 miles) north of San Salvador. The site takes up 3,200 hectares (7,907 acres) in the center of the country.
14 layers of ash fell over the site preserving it until 1976. In 600 AD, the nearby Loma Caldera erupted and buried it for generations. Joya de Cerén has given valuable insight into the daily lives of Central America‘s pre-Colombian population. The archeology has exceptional preservation after discovery during the construction of grain silos. The artifacts of these ancient inhabitants are invaluable. Most were in the original position for storage, giving insight into its use.
Joya de Cerén is the only Mayan archeological site that focuses on the daily lives and practices of peasant populations. For this reason, it can be a little underwhelming for visitors that have been to the massive sites in the north, such as Chichén Itzá, Copán, and Tikal.
The pre-Hispanic farmers settled here between 200 and 600 AD. Archeologists believe that the population did not exceed more than 200 inhabitants before the arrival of the Spanish. They have not discovered any bodies during excavations. They believe that a magnitude 4.0 earthquake swept through the area before erupting and alerting the residents. There is evidence to support this, with cracks in the building’s organic material.
There are approximately 70 structures discovered, with 18 identified and 10 completely, or partially, excavated. Made from of earthy materials, these structures are often called an adobe. Each has important features, such as thatched roofs, garden tools, bean filled pots, sleeping mats, animal remains, and religious items that deteriorate in tropical conditions.
The excavated structures include, large community buildings, two houses, three storehouses (one of which was being remodeled upon burial), one kitchen, a temezcal (or sweat bath), a community religious building, and a structure that a shaman utilized for daily practices.
The excavations are important because they provide detailed information into the activities of Mesoamerican farmers. This provides an invaluable glimpse into the lives of Mayan agriculturalists. We now know that four of the main crops produced at the site were guava, agave, cacao, and manioc (or yuca). Archeologists preserved food and organic material, that disintegrate, in plaster casts like Pompeii.
The exceptional site provides unique evidence of characteristics that illustrate the continuity in ways of life. It shows how these characteristics facilitate relationships with the present people. But also, how past activities and beliefs have carried through to modern generations.
Getting Here:
Getting to the archeological site is simple. The easiest route of travel is with a rental car and Google Maps, albeit it’s the most expensive. The next easiest is a Taxi or Uber, but this is also expensive compared to my recommended route, a public bus. When coming from San Salvador, take a bus to the main OCC (Occidente) Terminal, where there are two options.
First option, take bus 201 destined for Santa Ana for $1. Then, either transfer to bus 108 for $0.75 or walk roughly 6.5 kilometers (4 miles) to the entrance. The best option is to take bus 108 destined for Opico for $0.75 and hop off at the entrance of the UNESCO Site. When coming from Santa Ana, take bus 201 destined for San Salvador for $1 and either transfer or walk to the site.
Joya de Cerén was closed until recent months, partly due to Covid and partly due to restorations since 2019. The French were paramount in the completion of the restorations. Apparently, they footed 70% of the $1.3 million USD bill. Before closing, the entrance fee was $3 for foreigners and $1 for locals with an El Salvadorian ID. Thanks to the restorations, entry has increased to $10 for foreigners and is the same for locals.
Hours of Operation
The site is open six days a week, every Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Keeping the size of the site in mind, visitors do not need much time to explore the facilities. There are two large coverings, or roofs, with a designated path along the outside to protect the site. The designated route is where visitors can view the excavations from above.
Site Museum
A small museum, and bathrooms, conclude the facilities of Joya de Cerén. The museum gives in depth information about crops, culture, and the lives of those that occupied the area. All the information provided was available in both English and Spanish.
Due to bus travel, the total recommended time for a visit is around five hours. Travel time is about the same from both origin points since the site is in the middle of both cities. Be sure to set aside around 3-3.5 hours for the trip. This calculation allows for any mishaps, potential traffic, or accidents.
If visiting the museum, then plan for the site to take around 1.5 hours. If these are not your forte, then plan for a quick stop that should take 45 minutes (depending on the pace, of course). I recommend exploring the museum before delving into the excavations. This will give you a better understanding of everything you’re going to see.
Final Thoughts
I loved my experience in this smaller UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was underwhelming but gave an important window into the past. The site helped me to understand what life was like for the common folk in ancient times. Thankfully, I arrived with limited expectations.
Joya de Cerén is not a destination that I would recommend to everyone. Hell, it’s a site I’d barely recommend to most of my friends. Yet, it’s still one I recommend to anyone that wants to learn more about pre-Hispanic culture. It’s the perfect site for any history or archeology buff. But be sure to temper any expectations.
Quick Notes:
- Entrance fee: $10 USD foreigners & $1 Locals
- Hours of operation: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-4pm
- Travel time by bus from both Santa Ana & San Salvador: 3-3.5 hours
- From San Salvador take Bus 108 direct to Joya de Cerén for $0.75 (one-way)
- From Santa Ana take Bus 201 for $1. Transfer to Bus 108 for $0.75 or walk 6.5 km (4 mi)
