Liberia is a city in northwestern Costa Rica, nicknamed “la ciudad blanca”, or the white city. Named after roads of white gravel with colonial buildings that have white facades. Liberia is the largest city and the capital of Costa Rica’s Guanacaste region. It sits at an elevation of 144 meters (472 feet) above sea level.
As of 2020 the city holds a population of 76, 969 inhabitants. Liberia is 215 kilometers (134 miles) north of the country’s capital, San José. It’s in a dry province that receives less rain than the rest of the country. Dry season runs from November through April, when it’s hot with little rain. The wet season extends through the rest of the year, from May through October.
Liberia was originally founded as a “Hermitage” on September 4, 1769. They established the city without any formal legal declaration of foundation. Travelers and livestock would use the regions Giant Guanacaste trees for shade. The city was strategically placed at the crossroads of Rivas, Bagaces, and Nicoya. As time passed the city became known as “El Poblado de Guanacaste”.
Costa Rica and Nicaragua gained independence from Spain on September 15, 1821. This came with the defeat of the Spanish in the Mexican War of Independence. Liberia separated with the people of Nicaragua. They had stronger economic ties with cities like Rivas. The association continued with Nicaragua. It continued after the congress of the Federal Republic of Central America voted to self-annex and join Costa Rica on July 25, 1824.
After years of dispute, in 1826, Liberia was officially added to Costa Rica. The Federal Republic of Central America went on to dissolve in 1838. That same year, Costa Rica formally withdrew from the group. Finally declaring itself a sovereign state.
10 years later, Costa Rica divided the country into provinces, cantons, and districts. It designated Liberia as the capital of the canton, of the Guanacaste province. Cantons are further divided into districts for political reasons.
It wasn’t until May 30th, 1854, that Liberia was finally given the name it holds today. The city would become a major center for both agriculture and livestock. Later, the construction of the Pan-American Highway would increase commerce and Liberia’s importance. Today, it’s a major stopping point for tourists heading to the National Parks or the Pacific Coast.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Liberia has become the regional hub of the Costa Rican northwest. Tourists stop in for a night or two, enroute for the coast or National Parks. It accesses the Guanacaste Area of Conservation. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, due to a mosaic of diverse ecosystems. These include the best dry forest habitats from Central America to Mexico.
Beaches & the Pacific Coast
Liberia is perfect for exploring the plethora of beaches via a short-day trip to the coast. Local busses and transportation leave from the Terminal in the center of the city. The two best beaches to explore, are Playa Hermosa and Playa Tamarindo.
Playa Hermosa is the more secluded option. It features a breathtaking beach with a crescent shape. This creates its own bay while hugged by lush jungles on all sides. The surf is calm and perfect for swimming. Playa Tamarindo is much busier. It’s the largest town and tourist center on the Pacific coast. It’s perfect to learn to surf and includes a strong party vibe.
There’s also Playa del Coco and the entire Papagayo Peninsula to explore. Playa del Coco is one of Costa Rica’s oldest beach communities. It’s also one of the fastest growing tourism sectors of the country. It’s not as developed as Tamarindo but has plenty of services to choose from. The amenities include beach side bars and restaurants galore.
Hot Springs in a Volcanic National Park
Visitors should be sure to take a day to explore the Rincon de la Vieja National Park. It’s northeast of the city. The park features volcanic hot springs, bubbling clay pots, rivers, and waterfalls galore. These are all along the many hiking trails around the park. Rincon is also part of the Guanacaste Conservation Area and part of the UNESCO Site. Southeast of Liberia, there are more hot springs along the west slopes of the Miravalles volcano.
Best Waterfall in Costa Rica
About 20 minutes south of the city is the cascada (waterfall) Llanos del Cortez. It’s about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) north of Begaces. The easiest way to get here is by getting a group of people together at the hostel and splitting a taxi. This way the driver can wait and drive the group back as well. It costs around $7 each. According to my hostel there isn’t a bus that comes by here. Yet, I’m sure it’d be possible with a bus to Begaces and telling the driver where you need to get off.
Where to Eat
Most of the city’s historic buildings need a new paint job and light restoration. It’s a pleasant city to walk around in, but there isn’t much to see. When looking for places to eat, the best and most affordable restaurants are the local sodas. A Soda is a small restaurant that serves local foods at an affordable price. These are where you’ll see locals eating.
There’s also a healthy selection of restaurants and Panaderías as well. Be sure to try the local staple ceviche. Ceviche is a Peruvian dish that is popular in Liberia. The dish features raw fish cured with citric juices, such as lemon or lime.
Where to Stay
The city features a wide range of accommodations. They have something for almost any budget. I’ve enjoyed the Dodero Hospedaje. It’s small and affordable, costing 7,700 Costa Rican Colón’s ($11.13 USD) for a dormitory on Hostel World. They also have private rooms for as low as 10,297 CRC ($16) per night. Dodero is complete with a full kitchen and hammocks to relax in.
Getting Here & Transportation
Getting to Liberia is easy. I came from the Frontera (or border). Once I had my stamp, I walked out of the immigration office and there were two busses waiting to load up passengers. One headed to San José and the other to Liberia. I forgot to ask the price for the bus to San José, so unfortunately couldn’t say how much it cost. The bus for Liberia cost 1,845 CRC ($2.66) and took about two and a half hours.
The thing to know about Costa Rica is that all transportation goes through the capital of San José. So even though it looks like it’d be an easy transfer to Monteverde and La Fortuna, it’s not. You’ll still have to pass through San José. The other option is a private taxi to get to where you want to go or a rental car. Neither of which is cheap.
Five years ago, I took that route when pressed for time. It cost me $60 USD but delivered me directly to my hostel in Monteverde. The commute was 3.5 hours. It’s not impossible, but it is expensive. Busses to San José from Liberia cost 4,525 CRC ($6.54) and take around 6 hours.
My Experience
I’ve passed through this city on two occasions. Once five years ago and again on this trip. This time I stopped to break up a long day of traveling on busses from Isla Ometepe in Nicaragua. I got a night’s rest, before continuing down to San José. Last time, I made sure to explore everything the region has to offer. Playa Hermosa was by far my favorite and the most memorable beach that I’d seen. Next time, I’ll be sure to dig deep into the Rincon de la Vieja National Park.
Final Thoughts
Liberia isn’t the most beautiful city, but still a necessary stop. Anyone that wants to explore the magical Guanacaste region will need to visit. Most travelers stop in for a day or two, and to be honest, that’s all you need for this big city. The museums aren’t exciting and most of the buildings are due for an upgrade. Yet, it’s the perfect stop to see one of the country’s best waterfalls and its other natural wonders.
Quick Notes:
- Group taxi to Llanos del Cortez Waterfall: $7 USD per person
- For affordable food, eat at the small restaurants called Soda’s.
- Stay at Dodero Hospedaje: Dorm Room – 7,700 CRC ($11.13) Private Room – 10,297 ($16)
- Bus from Frontera to Liberia: 1,845 CRC ($2.66) per person
- Bus to San José from Liberia: 4,525 CRC ($6.54)
- Private Taxi to Monteverde: $60
