Life’s a beach in the small port town of Puerto Escondido. They feature some of Mexico’s finest beaches. On the Pacific Coast and in the southern state of Oaxaca. Settled on the east coast, it is Oaxaca’s most important tourist, and beach, destination. This economic center stimulates the economy of the entire coast.
Up until the 1930’s Puerto Escondido was a port without a town due to scarce potable water. Overtime, a village and small city popped up. Finally, developing into the important destination that it is today.
Puerto Escondido long held the name Zicatela, a Nahuatl word for “place of large thorns.” Today, it refers to the area’s most famous beach, Playa Zicatela. A massive beach that extends 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles) across the Pacific.
This port is well known among the backpacking community. Famous for its picturesque beaches and insatiable surf. It is well known throughout the surfing community for a rough tide and massive waves.
Puerto Escondido services a more downscale crowd. Most visitors are surfers, backpackers, and local Mexican families. In part, thanks to being a more affordable destination than the nearby Huatulco.
Huatulco is a little south, featuring a resort that services a more extravagant crowd. As noted, surfing is the main draw. Yet, visitors can fill their days relaxing between the variety of beaches along the coast. If surfing and beaches are not your thing, then be sure to try some deep-sea fishing or go scuba diving.
Mexican Pipeline!
This region discovered fame hosting an international surf competition. The world-renowned competition helped solidify its reputation as Mexico’s premier surfing destination. Playa Zicatela’s nicknamed the “Mexican Pipeline”. It hosts a similar composition, power, and shape to the Banzai Pipeline on the north-shore of Oahu.
My Experience
My three days here were during the final days of the Covid-19 pandemic. Town was far more quiet than normal. Bars that are generally open all night with loud music spilling out, closed early. Restaurants had guests but never filled up.
I spent my time exploring the different beaches. In search of relaxation with different views. Each beach offered different vibes from the one before it. Yet, since I’m not a surfer, exploring the lesser-known beaches was exactly what I needed.
I spent most of the first day soaking up the sun’s rays at Playa Carizalillo, the second most popular beach in Puerto. Carizalillo features a hidden cove. Tucked under rocky cliffs and with adorned with a lush green jungle. Climb close to 400 stairs, leading down to the beach front. Beach goers can try their hand at surf lessons. Several instructors stand around waiting for new students to approach.
I filled the second, and last, full day with Playa Angelito and Manzanillo. These two beaches were like Carizalillo, but with a quiet family vibe. The coastlines orient these two beaches to face each other. Both surrounded by jagged cliffs dressed in lush jungles.
Where to Stay
Find accommodations with a search through Hostelworld. They offer the best prices and most affordable hostels. I found the hostel I stayed at with them, Vivo Escondido. It’s a short five-minute walk from the Carizalillo beach front.
Find more lavish accommodations through Booking.com. They offer the cheapest hotels and private guest rooms for rent. They tend to be more expensive than hostels but offer more privacy too.
Getting Here & Around
The easiest way to explore the area, and everything that it has to offer, with a car rental and Google Maps. Several shops offer scooter rentals to get around for as low as $20 per day. All Mexico’s major bus company’s service Puerto Viejo.
Find the best prices and cheapest tickets through Busbud. There are several collectivos that arrive from surrounding towns as well. Unfortunately, my notes got spoiled. Thus, cannot provide prices or locations of their terminals.
The week before arriving, the government decided to lift their Covid lockdown. Because of this, Puerto had about a 1/4 of the people that are normally there. This created a unique and quiet experience, nothing like the usual Puerto Escondido. The hostel staff described a much livelier city and nightlife. One that is usually rowdy and rambunctious. I am grateful that my experience was significantly different.
Final Thoughts
I would love to pass through again. Yet, I’m not much of a party person, or a surfer, so I’d be more likely to use it as a transfer point enroute to Isla Chicahua. One of Mexico‘s best kept secrets and a personal favorite beach town.
Most people get stuck in Puerto Escondido or the smaller town of Mazunte (south of Puerto). The party scene has a certain allure that many backpackers have trouble getting past. Yet, the promise of a secluded picture-perfect beach, connected to a National Park, kept me on the move. Next stop is Isla de Chacahua in Parque Nacional de Laguna Chacahua!
Quick Notes:
- Playa Zicatela is a famous 3.5-kilometer (2.2-mile) surf beach nicknamed: “The Mexican Pipeline”
- My favorite beach is Playa Carizalillo, a scenic hidden cove with all the activities
- Playa Angelito and Manzanillo are like Carizalillo but family oriented
- Rent scooter’s for as low as $20 per day
