Chetumal is a major city on the Mexican side of the Belize border. This major port city is home to a stunning Manatee sanctuary in the Bay of the same name, Chetumal Bay.
Positioned on the west of Chetumal Bay, this city can be found near the mouth of the Rio Hondo (Hondo River). As of 2020, the capital of Quintana Roo, is home to a population of more than 169,000 inhabitants.
Chetumal is the gateway to the Grand Costa Maya and has a great cultural and historical value. It is believed that Chetumal was originally a Pre-Colombian city named Chactemal, meaning “place of the red wood” in Yucatec Mayan. The original location of the city is believed to be where current day Santa Rita is found in modern day Belize.
The original city, similar to its modern-day counterpart, was the capital of the Mayan state of the same name. This sect of Mayans controlled what is today, Quintana Roo and northeastern Belize.
The locals extensively fought off the Spanish Inquisition all the way through the 16th century. A major revolt ensued during the 1840’s, when The Indigenous Mayans had had enough of Spanish control.
The suppressed natives fought against Mexican rule in a bloody war known as the Caste War of the Yucatán. A war that would continue for more than 50 years. Eventually the Mayans finally won their freedom, driving all the Hispanic people out of the area.
The current site of the city was established as a Mexican port town in 1898, with the original name Payo Obispo. At the invitation of founder Othon P. Blanco, the early population was mostly settlers from Belize including Caste War refugees and Englishmen.
In 1936 the city adopted the name that it goes by today, Chetumal. Chetumal’s location on the Caribbean coast leaves it vulnerable to tropical cyclones. In fact, the entire city was ravaged by two hurricanes in the 1940s, then again by a category five in 1955. After the last hit, the city was rebuilt with concrete blocks to replace the wood material, helping to establish a new modern city.
A connection of highways was established in the 1960 & 70s, helping to propagate a major population boom. On October 8th, 1974, the federal government of Luis Scheverría Alvarez heavily promoted the Federal Territory in state of the Federation, to become the capital of the new state of Quintana Roo.
This growing modern city is hot year round. It’s located in a tropical climate with an average temperature of 25.9°C (78.6°F), with spikes that can reach as high as 39°C (102.2°F). In fact, the weather is so consistent here that it rarely gets below 30°C (86°F) and above 33.3°C (92°F).
Chetumal has a rainy season that extends from May through October, with an average rainfall 1,356 mm (53.4 in) each year. This coincides with hurricane season, generally June through November, with peak season from August through October.
My time in Chetumal was short. I was originally hoping to use it as a transfer point to Belize. However, everything I’ve heard from those that got turned back, was that it’s extremely complicated.
An older gentleman with plenty of money explained that he had tried to get through three times. He continued that I would need to have direct transport from the border directly to my accommodations, that was going to cost around $250 USD to get to Belize City. I decided it would be best to explore other options (side note, I ended up using saved up airline miles and got a cheap roundtrip flight from Cancun to St. Louis then down to Belize City).
I was surprised to find that the city was far larger than anticipated. However, large cities come with plenty to do! I highly recommend starting your journey at the Bay of Chetumal. This is where the Santuario del Manatí (or Manatee sanctuary) can be found, directly next to the Malecón de Chetumal (Ocean Front Walk of Chetumal).
As cool as this is, do not expect seeing Manatees as a guarantee, they roam freely and don’t always stay in one spot. If you are lucky enough to see one of these gentle giants, then it’s important to remember that these creatures are endangered and wild animals. It’s best to not feed them, as feeding wildlife creates a dependency on humans for food, something that can be detrimental to an endangered species.
Nearby, and a part of the Malecón de Chetumal, tourists can view the Governor’s Palace. Located across the street from a pier that is the international terminal for boats from Belize. The pier offers stunning views of the Governors palace and the Bay of Chetumal.
Chetumal is the perfect place to sign up for some scuba cave dives. The Taj Mahal Cenote is perfect for this experience. The Taj Mahal offers plenty of room for divers to explore the subterranean world and provides the rare opportunity to see stalagmite and stalactite formations under water.
This city is home to two museums, Museo de la Cultura Maya (Mayan Culture Museum) and Museo de la Ciudad (Museum of the City). Museo de la Cultura Maya is one of the prime stops for Chetumal. Unfortunately for me, both of these museums were closed due to ongoing concerns surrounding the Covid pandemic.
There’s a handful of archeological sites nearby as well. The best one is supposed to be Zona Arqueológica de Dzibanché Kinichná. Falling in right behind it is Zona Arqueológica Koulis, closely followed by Kinichna Zona Arqueológica.
I cannot give my opinion of these sites, as I decided to pass them up this time around. I had already been to several major sites around the Yucatán, and I was enroute to the legendary site of Calakmul, so I decided to relax instead.
Visitors also have the chance to stop into the city’s zoo named Zoologico Payo Obispo, holding true to Chetumal’s original name. The zoo has been dedicated to the children of Quintana Roo, and from what I’ve read, is well looked after.
The animals seem to be happy and well fed. Unfortunately, they’re closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, which were the only two days I had planned to be in Chetumal, another missed opportunity this time around.
I thoroughly enjoyed the couple of days I spent here. The sunset over the Malecón is fantastic. The glowing ball of fire slowly disappeared over Belize enroute for Guatemala, kissing the edge of the trees as it passed above.
I would absolutely return here. I loved the laid-back Caribbean vibe of Chetumal. The handful of people I spoke with were quite friendly. Because of this I never hesitated to ask someone for help. Anytime that I would ask for directions, the locals were always willing to help with a smile!
Depending on the traveler, Chetumal can be a little off the beaten track. Backpackers manage to pass through enroute to Belize. However, I can’t say that I’ve met anyone that’s travelled here specifically for this destination.
I would recommend the city of Chetumal to those that want to get away from the busy tourist centers of Quintana Roo. It’s a great place to bring the family, or just enjoy some laid-back Caribbean vibes. It’s the perfect spot to dive headfirst into some Caribbean culture!
