Calakmul is in the base of the Yucatán Peninsula and one of the largest protected areas that includes some of the most impressive Mayan Ruins in all of Mexico. Established in 1989, this massive Biosphere is an astonishing 7,231 square kilometers (4,493 square miles). In fact, the Biosphere Reserve is so massive, that it takes up roughly 14% of the state of Campeche.
The area is of such cultural and environmental importance that UNESCO named the entire Biosphere, along with the Archeological Site, a combined World Heritage Site in 2002. The Biosphere is home to more than 86 mammals, 18 of which are in the National Registry of Mexican Ecology, outlining the different species, flora, and fauna that are rare and under protection in the country.
The Biosphere is home to five of six big cats that are native to Mexico, the jaguar, puma, ocelot, jaguarundi, and margay. Head down between the months of December and February for the best opportunity to see a jaguar. Visitors should also keep an eye out for Geoffrey’s spider monkeys, Guatemalan black howlers, toucans, and parrots.
Deep in the Biosphere
Zona Arqueológico de Calakmul (or Archeological Zone of Calakmul) is deep in the Mayan jungle, roughly 60 kilometers (35 miles) from the highway. It is one of the most important city centers and largest known Mayan sites that has been discovered. Calakmul was a powerhouse in the Mayan lowlands that was constantly at war with it’s southern Guatemalan neighbor Tikal. According to Mayan reflections the struggles between Calakmul and Tikal are historically likened to two superpowers.
The city is directly in the center of the Petén Mayan region and only 35 kilometers (22 miles) north of the Guatemalan border. The archeological site covers more than 70 square kilometers (27 square miles) and is believed to have been home to more than 50,000 inhabitants. It is believed that Calakmul’s influence extended for up to 150 kilometers (58 miles).
Calakmul was believed to have direct influence over more than 200,000 people due to secondary cities that included both Oxpemel and Uxul. Outside of the secondary centers were additional rural settlements on the outer reaches. Including both types of settlements, and the main city, Calakmul could have had direct influence over more than 1.5 million people.
It is believed that Calakmul existed for around 12 centuries, from 550 BC through 900 AD. The largest structures and urban plan were most likely completed during the Middle Classic Period from 550 BC through 300 BC. However, during the 5th century Calakmul underwent significant remodeling, along with laying the foundation to the Great Pyramid.
Calakmul experienced great prosperity between 600 and 800 AD. The city saw widespread construction that included renovations along with the building of monuments and stelae in the Great Plaza. The city center feels similar to that of Cobá in Quintana Roo. The sacbes (or causeways) originate from the main plaza and lead to various secondary urban centers.
During my visit, there were three sections of the archeological site open to the public. The first is a large group of platforms and buildings to the west of the Great Plaza, with a smaller group to the east. In between the two zones is the Central Zone with the Great Pyramid (labelled structure II).
To help sustain the massive population, Calakmul also had the largest water reservoir discovered in the Mayan world. The reservoir measures an impressive 242 by 212 meters (794×696 feet) and is filled by a small river during rainy season.
The Great Plaza is a large group of buildings and platforms, where royal and religious activities are thought to have been carried out. The site features around 117 total stelae. Stelae are upright stone slabs that depict a commemorative description or design. Many of the stelae in Calakmul are positioned in pairs with a significant number that depict a ruler and their spouse.
Over 6,000 structures have been discovered in the city of Calakmul, along with several sacbes. Most buildings and sacbes are closed to the public, however the best and most impressive examples of each are available for visitors to see. There are eight sacbes open so visitors can walk, or rent a bike, to explore the sites.
The largest and most impressive structure is hands down the Great Pyramid. The Great Pyramid stands at an impressive 45 kilometers (148 feet) tall. This north facing pyramid is the second largest, discovered, in the Mayan world. The recently discovered pyramid of El Mirador in Guatemala is the only one that is taller. This looming pyramid is not for the faint of heart, the climb is steep but offers unimpeded views of the surrounding biosphere.
Getting Here
Getting to this secluded archeological site can prove to be one of the more difficult places to reach in Mexico. Making matters a little worse, busses do not run between the site and the nearest town. Doing this on my own and avoiding a tour left me surprised to find I had spent around the same as if I had taken a tour. Not to mention the headache of figuring this all out. Hopefully I can help you avoid the same frustrations.
Do yourself the favor and take the tour from Campeche! However, if you’re feeling on the adventurous side then you have two options. Either one come from Campeche, or two from Xpujil and Chetumal. Take an ADO bus from either Campeche or Chetumal to Xpujil, a small farming town that has been propagated by tourism for Calakmul. A one-night stay with an early wake up will be more than enough to get there.
Hopefully you’re not alone, or meet other tourists headed to Calakmul, as this will help make the journey much more affordable. Unfortunately, I had a mishap and lost my notes from the site, so I want to say the trip cost 1,600 MXN for a one-person cab ride. The archeological site is 2 hours from Xpujil and costs a total of 160 MXN after both the National Park fee (65 MXN) and the Ruin entrance fee (55 MXN).
The combination of the biosphere and the archeological site combine to make a very special stop. Out of all the Yucatán’s major archeological sites, Calakmul was by far my favorite. The site encompasses both the beauty of Palenque and the grandeur of Uxmal, but with a fraction of the people. The secluded nature of these ruins is second to none.
Take plenty of time and explore as much as you can! Take a day a dig deep into biosphere with a hike, and maybe download a map before you go. Bring the family, find a group of friends, or backpack through on your own. Whichever you choose, you will not regret taking the time to visit this magical place.
