Isla Ometepe is the largest island in Lago Colcibolca. It includes a large natural biosphere and two volcanoes. The island is in the Rivas department of southwestern Nicaragua. It measures at 31 kilometers (19 miles) long and between 5-10 kilometers (3.1-6.2 miles) wide.
The two volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas, provide an hourglass or peanut shape to the island. A small isthmus connects the volcanoes, thus forming the odd shape of the island. There’s always a volcano within view. They’re making their powerful presence known from everywhere on the island. The active Volcan Concepción dominates the north side. While the south has the extinct Maderas, which includes a cloud forest. There’s also an 80-meter (263-foot) waterfall, and a mist shrouded lagoon in the crater.
Nicknamed the “Oasis of Peace”, it has an estimated population of 35,000 inhabitants. The inhabits were here long before the arrival of the Spanish. There is evidence scattered all around the island. It’s seen through both petroglyphs and stone idols carved into basalt rocks. Ometepe is one of the great rock art destinations of the world. Past indigenous groups regard the island as the promised land and consider it sacred. The Chorotega, Nahuatl, and Mayans left behind a multitude of Pre-Colombian art.
Even the name Ometepe derives the use of two Nahuatl words. Ome meaning “two” and tepetl meaning “mountain”. The conquistadors converted the indigenous to Catholicism upon arrival. Yet, the locals retained and incorporated several customs and beliefs. The island hosts more folk and religious festivals than anywhere else in the country.
There are two towns and a few smaller settlements as well. The two biggest towns are Moyogalpa and Altagarcia. Moyogalpa is the bigger of the two. It’s a harbor village, settled underneath the always looming Concepción. This town features the dock for the ferry. So, everyone will pass through before reaching accommodations elsewhere on Ometepe. Altagarcia is the second largest town and the admin capital of the Maderas side. It’s located on the island’s east side.
The economy thrives from livestock, agriculture, and the tourism industry. Volcanic ash has created incredibly fertile soil and yields abundant crops. The island’s major crop production is plantains. The locals have adopted sustainable farming techniques over recent years. Many hotels serve self-grown fruits and vegetables. They feature local dishes and flavors that highlight what the region has to offer.
Things To Do
The tourism industry has increased over the past five years. Several hotels and eco-lodges have popped up, creating more lavish accommodations. This draws more tourists. These include more demanding eco tourists, sports enthusiasts, and serenity seekers alike. The island is full of things to do that will keep any kind of traveler occupied. Go for a horseback ride, go kayaking, fishing, or swimming in the lake.
Take a day trip and visit the 80-meter (263-foot) San Ramon waterfall. The Natural Park with the San Ramon Waterfall costs 100 Cordoba ($2.78 USD) to enter. Visitors can park at the bottom. Or climb 2 kilometers (1.24 miles) to a power station where the hiking only section begins. For the history buffs, take a trip back in time with a visit to the petroglyphs of El Porvenir.
Rent a moto (short for motorcycle), ATV, or a scooter and explore the island. Motos and scooters are incredibly affordable and cost $13-20 USD to rent for an 8 to 24-hour period. ATVs are a little pricier, and cost $50 for 24 hours. Connect any number of these activities during your visit for the ultimate itinerary. If desired, you can bring a rental car across the lake on the ferry.
My buddy and I rented a moto for $17 for an 8-hour day and navigated with Google Maps. This gave us plenty of time to explore the island. We were able to cover both halves of the island. Our journey even included a scenic lunch break. We ate at a restaurant that overlooked the lake, while Concepción loomed in the background. It was well worth the $17. If I had more time, I would have rented the bike for another day and climbed one of the volcanoes.
Where to Stay
Isla Ometepe has a place to stay for every budget. There are plenty of options to choose from. Choose between lavish accommodations at an eco-resort or a budget friendly backpacker hostel. I recommend staying at Hostel Coco’s.
It’s owned and run by a super nice small family. They were always happy to give outstanding service. They offer a laundry service at an affordable rate, 140C ($3.87). They’ll hook up guests with a reputable local, who can rent transportation for a day of exploration.
Hostel Coco’s is only $6.93 per night and includes breakfast. It’s quiet and conveniently located too. If looking for a more social atmosphere, and still budget friendly, then go with the backpacker hostel El Zipolite.
According to Hostel World, they charge $4.80 per night but does not include breakfast. A friend recommended El Zipolite, but I am not a fan of party hostels. I am always happy to pay $1-2 extra for breakfast as well. So, I couldn’t say from personal experience whether Zipolite is as good as I’m told. Find more expensive accommodations with Booking.
Getting Here
Getting to the island is simple enough. If coming from the north in Granada or the south in San Juan del Sur, take a chicken bus to San Jorge. Central America is where the retired school busses go to die after their conversion to a chicken bus. I recommend carrying bags onto the bus instead of allowing them to get thrown on the roof.
I’ve heard a few horror stories from other travelers having their luggage go missing. Sometimes you might get charged double for your bags. If this happens, take comfort knowing you’ve paid for two seats and enjoy the extra space.
As of June 2022, the chicken bus from Granada to San Jorge cost 50C ($1.39). They charged an extra 50C for my bag. I noticed the same for other backpackers getting on as well. After getting off the chicken bus, be sure to join up with other travelers.
This will make the taxi ride to the ferry as cheap as possible. I was alone and the price was 100C ($2.78). There is an extra 36C ($1) port fee upon entry to the docks. The ferry to Isla Ometepe costs 50C per person and the scenic journey takes around an hour.
Final Thoughts
Isla Ometepe is one of Nicaragua’s must-see destinations. Escape into nature and explore your more adventurous side. Ometepe is perfect for immersing oneself into the Nicaragua’s culture. Do this while exploring some of the countries more natural elements.
Also, learning about some history as well. The island used to be one of Nicaragua’s best kept secrets, well the secret’s out. If you find yourself in Nicaragua, then be sure to stop into this little slice of paradise.
Quick Notes:
- Chicken bus from Granada to San Jorge: 50 Cordobas ($1.39 USD)
- Taxi from San Jorge to Ferry 100C ($2.78)
- Port Fee: 36C ($1)
- Ferry Ticket: 50C ($1.39) one-way
- San Ramon Natural Park Entrance Fee: 100C ($2.78) per person
- Moto (dirtbike) Rental: $15-20 USD for 8-24 hours
- Scooter Rental: $13-20 for 8-24 hours
- ATV Rental: $50 for 24 hours
- Hostel Coco’s for quiet accommodations at 226C ($6.29) per night and includes breakfast
- Use the Laundry service for 140C ($3.87)
- El Zipolite is a party hostel for 173C ($4.80) per night and does not include breakfast
