Guatemala’s natural wonders are abundant and full of beauty. Especially the incredible Semuc Champey, tucked deep in the mountains of north central Guatemala. This magical place is in the Alta Verapaz department, like a state. The river is only accessible with a 4×4 vehicle 10 kilometers (6 miles) outside the nearby Mayan city of San Agustín Lanquín, or simply Lanquín.
This remote series of swimmable pools are worth the trek to see. It requires more than a day trip from any major city in Guatemala, except for Cobán, only 73 kilometers (45 miles) away. Semuc Champey is a striking 213 kilometers (132 miles) from Rio Dulce, 256 kilometers (159 miles) from Flores, 323 kilometers (201 miles) from Antigua, and 329 kilometers (204 miles) from Lake Atitlan. These wide distances make it easy to understand how a travel day is required to visit Semuc Champey.
Semuc Champey literally translates to “where the river hides under the stones.” The Lahabón River passes underneath a series of crystal-clear turquoise pools lined with orange and yellow limestone, created from the sedimentation of calcite. The limestone makes a picturesque natural bridge across the river. The pools are hugged by lush green vegetation creating a stark contrast of colors, with turquoise, oranges, and yellows that stretch for 300 meters (984 feet).
It’s like something directly out of a fairy tale. The magical site is the perfect stop for thrill seekers, adventurers, nature enthusiasts, families, and backpackers alike. It is the perfect place to melt into nature. Visitors can go for a hike, go river tubing, take a cave tour, rope swing, cliff jump, ride natural slides into the pools, or simply relax and watch as the shenanigans ensue.
I recommend spending the night at one of the hostels directly outside of the Natural Monument, Pachamaya Eco-Hostel or Greengo’s Hotel. Pachamaya is a basic accommodation that is geared toward the budget conscious backpacker. However, if you’re looking for a more glamorous accommodation then Greengo’s is you stop. They feature a pool, a massive bar, and a full restaurant with well-developed facilities, clearly the pricier option. There’s an array of both private rooms and dormitories at either.
How to Get Here
Getting here is relatively straight forward. There’s the option of chicken buses that take between 12 to 16 hours depending on the origin point or direct shuttles. The shuttles are offered from all around the country and vary in price depending on where they’re from. I don’t recommend a car rental unless renting a lifted 4×4 vehicle. Offline google maps will then be your best friend.
I traveled here from Rio Dulce, a little off the beaten path, but the easiest for getting there. The shuttle, at the time of publication (May 2022), cost 300 Quetzals ($40 USD). The route took around 6.5 hours to travel the 213 kilometers. The Rio Dulce shuttle cut straight through the Guatemalan mountains, servicing stunning views of the terrain.
The shuttle passes through communities who very rarely see foreigners. These locals are waving and saying hi, genuinely excited to see gringos. The drive was incredible. It provided nothing but expansive mountain views the entire route. The color of the river’s water creates an unrivaled vibrant turquoise sandwiched between the lush jungle.
My Experience
Entrance into the Natural Monument cost 50Q ($6.50 USD), open from 8 am to 5 pm. I took a morning hike and head down early, noting to leave by 930 am to avoid the midday heat. I got to El Mirador (The Viewpoint) in around 30 minutes. The overhead view is unreal and one of the most beautiful rivers that I’ve yet seen. The colors were vibrant and paint a picture. However, photographs do not disappoint either.
I highly recommend going river tubing. I did for this 70Q ($9.15 USD) with an ecstatic group I’d met swimming in the pools. The guide failed to warn us about any rapids until moments before small ones. Mario failed to stress a more intense group coming up not long after. One of the girls got stuck in the waterfall’s undertow and almost drowned. The guide pulled her out, but the damage had been done. Most of us managed to have a good time. It should be noted that if you do this, confirm how your group will get back. We had to walk about 4 km barefoot before getting our shoes. It wasn’t exactly a comfortable situation.
Unfortunately for me, I missed out on doing the cave tour. I already had a shuttle scheduled to Cobán. If it didn’t depart at 7 am I would have signed up. My friends raved about the 7 am tour. According to them, the sunlight reflects off the water for special views of the underwater caves. It’s supposed to be unreal.
No matter the type of traveler, it’s worth the journey to Semuc Champey. There is accommodation for every type of traveler, so there’s no excuse to not visit. Semuc Champey, or Semuc Champaigne, is easily one of the top 3 highlights during a visit to Guatemala. Don’t miss out if you journey to this protected region of Guatemala.
Quick Notes:
- Entrance Fee: 50Q ($6.50 USD) per person
- Hours of operation: 8 am to 5 pm
- River Tubing: 70Q ($9.15 USD) per person
- Cave Tour: 150Q ($19.58 USD) per person
- Shuttle From Rio Dulce: 300Q ($40 USD)
