Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is Costa Rica’s southernmost city on the Caribbean coast. Find out everything to know about visiting with my complete visitor’s guide. It is north of the Sixaola Panama border crossing. Yet, it’s often confused with its northern sister, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. 55 kilometers (34 miles) southeast of Puerto Limón and 16 kilometers (10 miles) south of Cahuita. Puerto Viejo is a beach lovers paradise. It’s a dream destination for outdoor enthusiasts, packed with a variety of exotic flora and fauna.
Some History
The original name was “Old Harbour”, up until the arrival of Cristopher Columbus in 1502. This is when the Spaniards institutionalized Spanish as Costa Rica’s official language. Five indigenous languages are still prevalent today. They’re part of the Chibcha language family. Included are the Bribri, Buglere, Cabecar, Guaymi, and the Maleku languages.
Indigenous populations intermingled with Spanish, English, and Europeans. Then, Latinos mixed with the Afro-Caribbean Garifuna culture of the Caribbean. This created the unique culture of the region. The Tico, or Costa Rica culture. A vibrant and diverse, with lots of coconut rice and colorful homes. Lively Reggaeton beats, and relaxed vibes dominate the coast.
Climate Expectations
Puerto Viejo has a Tropical climate. It’s hot and muggy year-round with tons of rain and consistent temperatures. This holds true during the driest months. Yet, don’t trust the forecasts, as they’re often wrong. A lot of the times they blanket the forecast and call for rain all day. Often the mornings are hot, with afternoon storms, or evening downpours. The rain season is between September and November, opposite from the rest of the country.
This remote region is most frequented by backpackers, and tourists. Most often by surfers looking for the famous swells close by. Many folks pass through enroute for the islands of Bocas del Toro in Panama. There are no services on either side of the border. Puerto Viejo has the closest accommodations, restaurants, and services to Sixaola.
Choose Between More Than 100 Restaurants
Downtown is small but packs a wicked punch, boasting more than 100 restaurants. The grid system spreads roughly six blocks by three blocks. Downtown is flat. The small grid concentrates the town’s services and shops. Town is comfortably located next to the beach. Explore the depths of Puerto Viejo in one or two hours. Take a couple extra in the morning and soak up some sun on the beach.
Sodas = Authentic & Affordable Food!
Stop into restaurant’s known as “Sodas,” for authentic Tico dishes at excellent prices. Be sure to try some Jerk Chicken, a popular dish in the Caribbean. Since the city is on the ocean front, be sure to try the fresh and delicious seafood. My favorite is Yellowfin Tuna. The incredible sushi grade is widely available in stores around the area. Stop into the Reggae bar of Cahuita for some decent food and funky live jams by local reggae bands.
As of 2020, the population of Puerto Viejo registers in at 29,785 inhabitants. The region’s aggressive expansion has put this protected region at risk. There are three National Park’s outside of the city’s circumference. Parque Nacionales (National Parks): Cahuita, Chirripo, and the Internacional (International) La Amistad.
Cahuita National Park
Puerto Viejo accesses some of the country’s most beautiful beaches. They’re surrounded by dense, lush jungles. Each offer an opportunity to surround oneself in nature. There are raging waterfalls with an array of exotic plant and wildlife. Cahuita is the most accessible National Park. It’s only 16-kilometers (10 miles) north of Puerto Viejo, in Cahuita.
Cahuita National features 2,600 acres on land with another 55 acres in the Caribbean. Admission is free, yet there is a donation box at each entrance station. Donations are what fund the conservation efforts. Tours are not necessary, but useful. The trained eye of a local, can spot animals that would otherwise be invisible.
There is one major hiking trail that passes between the two entrance stations. The trail services several secluded beaches as well. This National Park features more than 135 species of fish and another 35 species of coral. On land, there are armadillos and coati along with capuchin and howler monkeys. Also, don’t miss out on the sloths and the tamanduas as well.
Beaches Baby!
Puerto Viejo is famous in the surfing community. Known for the “Salsa Brava” swell, the longest and most powerful wave in Costa Rica. Find these phenomenal waves at Playa Salsa Brava on the edge of town. While catching these famous waves, be careful of the strong riptide. This rip current is notorious and is dangerous to swim in.
Alluring beaches lie a little south, between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo. They’re widely touted as some of the most magnificent in Costa Rica. This little slice of paradise has white sand beaches, with the most famous being Playa Punta Uva. It’s embraced by lush green jungles and the aquamarine of the Caribbean Sea. The swells are calm, and the sand is soft. The perfect beach for solitude.
My favorite beach is Playa Negra, a little north of Puerto Viejo in Cahuita. It’s a light black sand beach that has a calm surf and is good for swimming. Read my article and complete visitor’s guide on Cahuita for my in-depth review on Playa Negra. I also include and in-depth section on Cahuita National Park. That article also covers a day trip to the Bribri indigenous community. Yet, the real highlight are the thundering waterfalls outside the village.
Jaguar Rescue Center
Many tourists enjoy a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center. 13 kilometers (8 miles) south of town and next to an excellent beach. Day tours cost $20 per person, while night tours are $60. Visitors have the chance to get up close and personal with several rescued species. There are more than big cats here. They have capuchin and howler monkeys, crocodiles, frogs, iguanas, snakes, and spiders too. Not to mention some rare avion varieties as well.
Getting Here
Traveling around Costa Rica is difficult. Yet, traveling to Puerto Viejo is surprisingly straightforward. Minus the potential for getting on the wrong bus. Be careful and avoid going to the wrong city in the northeast called Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Both busses leave from the same station in San José. Making things worse, they’re both labelled as the same destination, “Puerto Viejo”.
Be careful which bus you choose. Check with the driver that it’s the correct destination before departure. Reserve bus tickets before arrival to the terminal with Busbud, for the best deals. Busses arrive throughout the day from Cahuita, Manzanillo, Limón, and San José. The bus station is in the northwest of town, one block from the intersection of Road 256 and Calle 213.
Avoid this confusion and get a rental car. Then, use Google Maps to navigate. Better yet, rent a 4×4 through Nomad America. These provide complete freedom when traversing the countryside. I cover everything included with a Nomad America rental in my complete visitor’s guide to San José.
Getting Around Town
The cheapest option to traverse town is a bike rental for $10 a day. Puerto Viejo is one of the few Costa Rican cities with tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks (or auto rickshaws) are sputtering three wheeled motorcycle taxis. They provide cheap public transportation. These are cheaper than taxis and Uber, but more expensive than the bike rental.
Where To Stay
Puerto Viejo offers several affordable hostels to choose from. Avoid showing up without a reservation. Find the best deals via Hostelworld. If hostels are not your forte, then find cheap hotels and guesthouses on Booking.com. If struggling to find something in town, then search in Cahuita for more a secluded selection.
Things To Do
This laid-back surf town has something for everyone. The cool Caribbean vibes feature world class snorkeling and diving. Choose between cacao tours, wildlife jungle tours, night hikes, and fishing. Visit waterfalls, National Parks, and deepen a yoga practice. Learn the local flavors and spice up your nights with Latin cooking or dance lessons.
My Experience & La Amistad National Park
My friends and I stopped in for a short-day trip and a couple lunches. We visited from the smaller community of Cahuita. Yet, next time I’d stay in Puerto Viejo. Guaranteeing exploration of the nearby Parque Internacional La Amistad (La Amistad National Park). It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, that boasts a lush biosphere. It’s considered one of the most outstanding areas of conservation in Central America. Panama splits conservation of the park in its entirety.
Final Thoughts
Puerto Viejo is a gem on Costa Rica’s southeast coast. A destination that is most famous among the surfing community. Yet, it happens to be perfect for families and outdoor enthusiasts alike. This unique, rugged destination should be on any Costa Rican itinerary. Don’t miss out and make those reservations today!
Quick Notes:
- Eat at restaurants called Sodas for authentic and affordable Tiko cuisine
- Cahuita National Park has free entry with a donation box at both stations
- Surf at Playa Salsa Brava but be careful of the strong riptide
- Playa Manzanillo (south) and Playa Negra (north) are excellent for swimming
- Bicycle Rentals cost $10 per day
